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Author Topic: Kenmore Elite Micorwave  (Read 6420 times)

Offline eakint

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: Apr 2012
  • Posts: 2
Re: Kenmore Elite Micorwave
« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2012, 11:23:27 PM »

Best thing to do in this scenario is replace the magnetron and the inverter board. Even though a mag passes a resistance check it can still be bad and a bad mag puts a lot of stress on the inverter board. Years ago I used to try to just replace one or the other but 99% of the time I ended up having to replace the other part as well.

Thanks, I would typcially troubleshoot a component at a time.  sure cannot find anything else suspect, connections, caps, diodes, etc.  how can I test the invertor board (it is a little hard to get to on this microwave / halogen speedcook model # 665.63793302 )  you can see in the pics I have the magnetron out, but the invertor board is really buried under some layers...  any tips on testing and removal for that one?


Offline whjeffs

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 57
Re: Kenmore Elite Micorwave
« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2012, 06:22:00 AM »
Basically all you can test is that the inverter is getting 120 volts to the gray & red wires when heating. Then you can check amp draw while it is heating, should be around 11 amps. My experience though with these tells me every time replace the magnetron AND inverter board together. The fact that you get a pulsing buzz along with the F7 indicates one of those components is bad. Too many times I have replaced just the inverter board, only to have the new inverter board ruined by a bad magnetron that otherwise tested "good". If you were going to try to replace only one part at a time, I would replace the magnetron first, as a bad inverter is not likely to damage a new magnetron. However, if you replace the magnetron and it works, don't expect the inverter to last long anyway as they usually don't after a bad magnetron has stressed them.


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