Hello all, I was drying my first load in my new electric dryer and got shocked when I touched the chassis in back of the dryer. I immediately turned the dryer off but I did check that chassis ground is getting 120 volts.
I am pre 1996 so am running a 3 wire 30 amp 240 volts. Electrical block is wired correctly. I noticed there is a factory white wire attached to the rear chassis ground screw. According the the dryer schematics this white wire also goes to neutral on the block and door light. If anyone has any ideas that would be great, otherwise I am calling in a service call.
Update; Not the issue, there is a factory white wire attached the the back grounding screw that is supplying 120 volts to the frame. According to the schematics attached to the dryer goes to Neutral, ground screw and door light. Calling Sears to setup a service call to figure out the issue.
Figured it out myself, I now understand what they mean by 4 wire installation for new construction as of 1.1.96. I opened up my electric service panel and I do not have a separate ground bar. My neutral and ground wires share the same bus (home built in 1989).
So per LG install manual 4 wire install;
Transfer the dryer's ground wire (white) from behind the green ground screw to the center screw of the terminal block (neutral). Attach the two hot leads of the power cord to the outer terminal block screws. Attach the white neutral wire to the center terminal block screw. Attach the power cord ground wire to the green ground screw. TIGHTEN ALL SCREWS SECURELY. Reinstall the terminal block access cover.
I did install a Leviton 4 Wire 30 Amp 250 Volt Flush Mount Dryer Receptacle (NEMA 14-30R). I had an existing 4 wire 10/3 with ground wire, (ground was attached to the outlet).
LG did not have the correct instructions for installing a 3 wire cable. The neutral wire attached to the chassis ground left the chassis with 120 volts.