I think I've got a deceptive repair man on my hands and wanted to get a second opinion, so to speak. I am having issues with my LG DLG0332W
dryer only heating sporadically, though it does light sometimes. It sometimes heats up right away, sometimes not until half way through a cycle, and sometimes not at all. It seems the longer it has been running (even cold) the less likely it is to light.
When running it with the front panel removed, I see the ignitor is lighting up, though it seems to dim too quickly sometimes and stay lit longer others.
Normally I would repair this myself, but since LG parts are not readily available, I decided I'd have an LG authorized repair man take a look in hopes he'd have in stock whichever part is bad, if that were the case. He came out and *without even opening the dryer or turning it on* immediately said I have a bad gas valve and already had the invoice written out. Yeah right. So I asked him if he was even going to open it up and test it or anything and he begrudgingly did. I watched him place his OHM meter on Valve 1 and got a reading of 1.8 and that was all he did, no other testing at all. He told me this is way too high and should be well below 1.0. Because of his attitude and unwillingness to evaluate anything else in the dryer, I told him I would not be authorizing repair and sent him on his way.
In reading the service manual, it indicates the following: When measuring terminal resistance on “Valve 1”,
“Valve 2”, Value is more than1.5 ~ 2.5kΩ?
(Measure after Off )
If the answer to this is YES, it indicates to replace the gas valve. If NO, it indicates the Harness and Controller.
So if he read 1.8, that seems to be well within acceptable range, or am I totally missing the mark here? He himself stated that replacing the valve may not fix the whole problem and I may need a new board as well, but he wouldn't know that until he changed the valve, he said there was no way to tell which was the problem. Sounds to me like he does not have a copy of the service manual... even I with my minimal experience can see that it shows how to test each.
Can someone shed some light on this for me? I am tempted to order a new ignitor and just change it out in hopes that's the problem, since it's a cheap part and will probably go out eventually anyways.