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Evap fan noisy and bogging and poss no defrost?

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Greeting all.  I have a GE GSL25JFPB and about 6 months ago, it started making God-awful noises.  It sounded like the blower fan inside the thing.  Not only was it making noise, but you could hear the motor bogging down.  So, I clean it out and pull the evap panel to find the evap coils frosted over badly.  Unplug the machine, put a fan infront of it and dry everything out real good.  Put it back together and plug it in and it works fine for about a week.  The, same thing.  So, this time, i took more of the machine apart, figuring that maybe there was an incroachment of frost into the evap fan's circumfrence.  Take ice maker out, everything, basically and get to where I can see the fan.  no obstructions.  Put it all back together.  Figure that maybe the fan is bad.  So, I go to my neighborhood appliance store (Gulgren's in Crystal Lake, IL) and get a new fan and harness.  Get home, take everything apart, go to put the new fan in and find that the replacement's harness is wired only the fan, not the same as the original.  So, put it all back together and back to Square 1.  couple weeks goes by and I can't take the dang noise anymore!!  Find your forum - yeah!  I have thoroughly read ALL similar/relevant posts and reference materials.  the links for the tech bulletin material was similar but not the same, but close enough that I could extrapolate differences.  Oh yeah, I should tell you, Im a fireman, so were good at three things, taking stuff apart, fixing stuff, and breaking stuff...Sadly on this unit, there are no digital readouts - only temp knobs, so I do not think I can run what would be otherwise helpful diagnostic tests.  But, using the Heavy frost on Evaporator algorhythm, I find the following things:  I unplugged the machine and took stuff out and removed the evap panel.  Remove the defrost heating element.  Check for continuity, and find YES, there is continuity.  Check the resistance, find it to be like 20-24 Ohms.  Plug the machine in and measure the voltage between the blue wire to the heating element and the pink wire for it.  Find it to be about 22 volts.  Strange, I thought.  Use the knobs off/on 5x in 10 seconds to try to initiate the defrost cycle and no change in voltage...Unplug the machine, put its innards all back together.  Go to the back of the machine to the main board.  Find what seem to be the relevant harnesses and connectors.  Find harness J7, pin9 - orange wire. measure the resistance from that to the J9 (DEFR) wire in the disconnected harness and find it to be 22.4 Ohms.  Close to what the algorhythm lists.  Plug machine in and start checking voltages.  With the machine plugged in and the harness disconnected from the main board, I found: J7(9) to J11 (LINE)=120v.  J7(9) to J9 (DEFR)=0v.  J7(9) to J8 (COMP)=0v.  J11 to J9=120v.  J11 to J8=120v.  So, the three wired harness that connects to the main board is getting power.  Coincidentally, the compressor started and the J11 to J8 went to like 25mv which makes since since with it running there would be no voltage potential difference, it would be the same.  Do the knob thing on/off 5x again and no change in the J11-J9 reading.  So, in the absence of any other ideas, I'm open to your input!!  Thermistor??  Defrost thermostat??  Putting fires out is easir than this!

Thanks in advance,
John  Lardino
Crystal Lake, IL


--- Quote ---So, this time, i took more of the machine apart, figuring that maybe there was an incroachment of frost into the evap fan's circumfrence.
--- End quote ---

Most firemen I know don't use $64 words...probably for good reason :)

Have you considered the possibility that the board is bad?

Dude you are down to a control problem or a sensor problem. I would check the resistance on all the thermisters. That fancy board has to read a change in resistance from a sensor to kick the defrost on.

$64 words - LOL - yeah...unless it's medical stuff...Of course, when I say stuff like pericardiocentsis, it makes my mom feel like the $$$ she invested in my college education 20 years ago was worth it...

I have considered replacing the board - even talked to my pals at Gulgrens about it...I don't want to pull the trigger on a board ($150?) and have it not be "what's wrong."  Seems too simple.  Of course, maybe I'll see if I can sweet talk them into letting me "try it" to see what happens.  *sigh*  Besides, that'd be too easy...

As far as checking the thermistors or the thermostat, I'm not sure what to check on them...I'd have to review the "generic" tech manual again to see if it describes what to look for...Sheesh...if it IS one of those things, that means taking all the crap out AGAIN and disassembling everything AGAIN and messing with those dang harnesses way in the back of the freezer AGAIN...Maybe the board would be a good place to start!

I though about trying to check the voltage sent to the fan since it was bogging down horribly, but it is unpredictable and besides that, I believe that it is a variable RPM based on need as determined by the processor anyway...

Always open to more ideas or suggestions!

Thanks for the replies!

Your friend,

you should be able to get sensor readings from the board with a meter.


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