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Author Topic: My first appliance part - 285753 Motor Coupling .stl file for 3d printing  (Read 985 times)

Offline AJ

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This was more or less just a exercise for me to get a little practice. I know the FSP motor coupler is pretty cheap and at this point made out of better material then what I'm capable of printing from home at this time.

With that being said the type of materials for 3d printers will only continue to expand as time goes on along with the rest of the technology.

Anyway on to my exercise. My goal was to create a accurate CAD file for the 285753 Motor Coupling using what skills I have learned so far and share it with the world for free.

The .stl CAD fie can be download here.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036688

I may print one this weekend just to see how it looks side by side with the FSP part.

Do you think it looks like anything like the FSP motor coupler?

Offline deekin

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Damn nice job, how much time invested?

Offline AJ

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Thanks deekin!

Not sure what version you seen as I just made a small change to the CAD file a few minutes ago. One part of it just did not look right to me and I finally figured out why this morning.

Anyway uploaded the change to thingiverse and now I think it looks exactly like the FSP one. :)

I spent a good part of my evening on this part. Between getting all the measurement from the original part with my calipers. Figuring some angles and radius. Writing down the dimensions on my hand drawn sketches and then finally getting to work in my CAD program. I would guess about 4-5 hours, but I'm still very new to all this.

From what I have seen in the CAD forums I visit a pro could have probably done it in a half hour or less. I learned a lot from it though and it would probably take me less then half the time if I was to do this same part again.

 

Offline AJ

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Well that didn't take long. About a week after I posted the .stl file on thingiverse at least one person that I know of besides me has already printed it.

Here is some feedback they left about the part.

Quote
Attempting to print now. I am using high impact abs with a 100% infill I did turn it upside down on print bed and used a raft to print on. I will post more if it works for me. I may try and print in nylon as well for it should last longer.

Quote
It printed very well exact copy of the original part I hope it is strong enough I printed the center bushing in pla at 75% infill I haven't had a chance to install yet thanks for the design

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2036688/#comments

I attempted to print the part myself last weekend, but part way through the laptop I had running the printer decide to reboot itself thus stopping the printer dead in it's tracks.

I must say I do enjoy the CAD part of things so much more then the actually 3d printing of things so far. The 3d printing part would be more enjoyable for me if it didn't take so darn long to print everything. Maybe I will get a faster printer this year or a bench top CNC machine. ;)

Offline andersenappliance

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pretty cool, AJ.

But can a 3D printer print the rubber?

No criticism, but I'd be looking at printing the $70 knobs, and the end caps that are NLA.

On the other hand, how does the plastic stand the strain?  or are you just trying to get the shape right at the moment?

Offline AJ

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Yeah, this was just a CAD exercise for me.

There are a lot of different materials you can use for printing and the list just keeps growing.

Just one example.
http://rubber3dprinting.com/

and then if you look at having the printing outsource to a professional printing company there is even more option.

https://www.3dhubs.com/material-group/rubber-plastic
https://i.materialise.com/3d-printing-materials/rubber-like
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/elasto-plastic

There is a lot to take into consideration when 3d printing functional parts.

There seem to be a lot of people that buy 3d printers and only ever print what is already available online.
As a hobby I may just keep getting deeper and deeper into the CAD side of things and leave the printing to someone else.

Then again maybe I will see a new printer online this year that I just can't refuse to try out haha...

Who knows...




Offline tgoods

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How close are tolerances? I need a spacer alignment tool for my Cabrio bearing tool. The one I made out of pvc pipe and electrical tape got stuck yesterday, which really sucked. It would need to be the same diameter as the narrow part of the upper die. The inner hole should be a tight fit with the screw shaft. The inner hole needs to be perfectly centered.  I would hold it in place with a loctited nut. Let me know if that's possible. Otherwise, I'll have a local machine shop make me an aluminum one.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2017, 11:03:36 AM by tgoods »

Offline AJ

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How close of tolerances do you need? If you want to send me a quick hand sketch with your dimensions it would not take long for me to create the file for it. I know my cad program will let me punch in at least 4 decimal places. The problem I would run into with tolerances would be with my printer and figuring material shrinkage. The .stl file I would create for the spacer would be spot on for the dimensions you want.

A professional print service will also be able to do a much better job with exact tolerances on a finished product then I would at this point and it would be tough to beat a machine shop.

Send me a quick drawing with dimensions and once I have the file created we can send it off to a number of pro print website and get instant quotes.

Offline tgoods

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AJ, do you have a Cabrio bearing tool? I basically need to extend the nose of the upper driver to keep the spacer aligned. I don't have a caliper to measure it.

Offline AJ

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I do not have a Cabrio bearing tool.

 

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