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Author Topic: GE bottom freezer  (Read 15649 times)

Offline Rick32k

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GE bottom freezer
« on: June 13, 2013, 12:26:05 PM »

I'm working on a GE refrigerator, MOD:PFS22SISBB, it's not cooling, so I checked the board and there was a huge burn spot so I switched it ou and the compressor still wouldn't kick on. The relay is good. I can't find the service manual it would really help if I could see a wiring diagram.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2013, 09:54:29 AM »
I tested the temp control board and it had no power it was completely dead. I'm getting power to the MCB. But nothing to the comp or Def coming from the board. Also I checked the 24volt connection at the J4 connector and Im getting 24V. At this point I'm stumped. Any Ideas?

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2013, 01:44:03 PM »
May have a bad board.Did it blow any resistors that control the fans on the old board?

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #3 on: June 14, 2013, 01:48:47 PM »
like this

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2013, 09:52:58 PM »
Yeah the board was bad there is a burn spot on it. And that resistor does look like its fried. When I plug it in I'm getting power to the new board and the lights are on but everything else is dead. The temp control inside is dead I took it out and plugged it into the J4 connector on the back of the fridge and it was still dead. I think the fan has shorted and the neutral is all connected at the fan so ther is no power. If I had the actual service manual It'll really help.

Offline Wedgeman55

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2013, 01:51:50 AM »
Couldn't find a manual for that,  maybe someone has it.   But I'm thinking fan sounds probable.   I've had several GE fridge's that had the fan short and take out the board.    That is where I'd be looking myself.   I always carry a condensor and evap fan (the one with the thermistor on board)  so I would have just switched it out.     
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Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2013, 07:05:23 AM »
Would that also cause the control board on the inside of the fridge to fail? Or not to display anything.

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2013, 06:24:35 PM »
The mother board.

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2013, 09:21:52 PM »
If you put a new board in leave the J2 plug unplug and see if the compressor comes on and the front user face lights up.This will keep all fans off then go from there.If its comes on more then likely a bad evaporator fan motor.Looks like that cost some money if is that fan motor.G.E for you.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2013, 09:29:56 PM »
I got a headache with this stupid fridge. I put a brand new control board and condenser fan, and it did absolutely nothing. The problem is that everything that uses dc voltage isn't working. The valves work fine and when I jumped the compressor it worked fine but the fans don't work and the control voltage for the compressor doesn't work either. I'm stumped I hate this f**king fridge( sorry for my French AJ) with all the work that goes into these things I might as well just work on commercial equipment it'll be way more money.

Offline schleven

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2013, 10:00:59 PM »
I know on some of those ge fridges there are some other modifications that need to be done as well. Dont have the tech sheet with me, but i have had to modify some things before. Its not always as simple as plugging in the board. Make sure you check the model number against those listed on tech sheet
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Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #11 on: June 18, 2013, 02:05:32 AM »
Your talking about the one that comes with the board?

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2013, 07:59:26 AM »
Yea i think he was talking about the instruction sheet with the serial numbers to correct if it apples to your serial number.I know from my parts look up that the original board was part # WR55x10526 and change to WR55x10942 so you could have to do something to new board if it has one of those serial # on the Sheet.May want to look at that.

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2013, 08:00:38 AM »
I did the serial numbers on the sheet where different from that on the fridge.

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #14 on: June 18, 2013, 02:42:47 PM »
Yea i read somewhere if you leave J2 off when you install new board that would off coarse keep all fans off but suppose to fire up compressor at least.Never tried it though.I don't know what to tell you.Bottom mount is a bitch to get to that evap. fan motor if it is bad.Sometimes you can have the you wish you never got involve with.

Offline dab147315

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2013, 03:33:37 PM »
I google the eval.Fan motor for your model which is # WR60x10196 and click on appliance parts pro.And someone said on there forum said that the WR60x10185 had a little longer shaft and that wire colors were the same but wattage was a little different.But he remove shaft from bad motor and install it in the WR60x10185 which is about $40 dollars.I was wondering if you left the longer shaft in the WR60x10185 would it mount and has anyone tried it.The guy said the small increase in wattage would not hurt.Would save a lot of money if you could use it.HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS WITH THE LITTLE LONGER SHAFT?

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #16 on: June 19, 2013, 09:37:10 AM »
THANKS! I'm thinking its the confessor fan because when I turn it on I here a quick buzz and click coming from subside the fridge but one of those is about $200 so at $49 its definitely worth a shot especially seeing as I'm completely out of options. Thanks a lot dab I appreciate the help Mann, your the only one that responded I guess the other guys are stumped too.

Offline appltech

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #17 on: June 19, 2013, 12:02:09 PM »
With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

Let me know what you find! Good luck!

Offline Rick32k

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #18 on: June 19, 2013, 01:07:00 PM »
With these DC motors, there is no testing it's resistance. If it has voltage, and its not moving, it's bad. That being said, I have had a few evap fan motors short and take out the board. Can't recall a cond fan doing the same, but i suppose its possible. If the motor has any discoloration at all (brownish), replace it. Check voltage coming out of the board to run the fans on J2. GE uses Pulse Width Modulation to run its fans, so you need more than just 12VDC at the motor.

Just my opinion, I'd never pull the shaft of one motor and put it in another. Even if the motor is $200, its still cheaper than a $2,000 refrigerator.

Did your display work with the old board? There was a service bulletin out a while ago on the GE 25cu ft top mount. Basically if you have voltage going to the display/control board, but the main board doesn't receive voltage back, it goes into a 'limp mode' meaning that it could run very erratically. This bulletin doesnt apply to the bottom mount, but its worth knowing. The mini manual on this model doesn't list a specific voltage to run the control board. Check for any DC voltage between all three pins of J4, with J4 unplugged. Plug it in, check for the same voltage at the control board.

While you're at the main board, checking all the thermistors is really quick and simple. Their early thermistors had a lot of issues.

Let me know what you find! Good luck!

When I checked for voltage to the condenser fan it was jumping between .50 and .24 but the tech shred says there 12 vdc. Can you check for continuity from the back of the fridge? And the shaft on the $49 dollar motor looks like the same length as the $200 motor.

Offline niobrara

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Re: GE bottom freezer
« Reply #19 on: June 19, 2013, 01:20:02 PM »
continuity really wont do you any good on the motors with chips Rick. You really want to check from the board first and make sure your getting the correct Dc power to it.