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LG Dryer has no power. Voltage is weird at terminal block

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Kenmore Dryer Model 79680441900

The other night my girlfriend turned on the oven in the kitchen and it sparked then would not work. Later she noticed the dryer did not power on at all either. These two appliances run off the same dedicated electrical supply and run off the same breaker. I've been trying to troubleshoot the dryer first. Here are my tests so far:

1) Flipped breaker off then back on
2) Checked voltage at the outlet (both outlets)
3) Disconnected the power cord from the terminal block and tested the power cord. L1/N-120, L2/N-120, L1/L2-240.
4) Checked the thermal fuse for continuity.
5) Reconnected the power cord to terminal block.
After reconnecting the power cord to the terminal block I recheck as I did before however now my readings are as follows:
L1/N-18, L2/N-240, L1,L2- 240.

I dont understand what would cause these readings to flip once the cord is reconnected to the terminal block.

You have a short in the plug outlet or at the breaker.  You will need an electrician to help you with this one.


--- Quote from: wildimaginations on February 22, 2013, 01:09:09 AM ---You have a short in the plug outlet or at the breaker.  You will need an electrician to help you with this one.

--- End quote ---

First, thank you for helping. I thought if it was the outlet or my breaker, I wouldn't get the readings that I did in steps 2 & 3 which I performed?! When I unplug the dryer and test from the outlet I get 220 from the 2 hots and 110 from one hot and the neutral. I also tested the end of the power cord which attaches to the terminal block (before its connected to the terminal block) and got the same readings. It's only when I attach the power cord to the terminal block of the dryer that I get these skewed readings. I apologize if that is exactly the reason that you believe it is the outlet or breaker but just wanted to clarify?

Each appliance should have their own breaker.  The dryer needs a 30 amp and the oven needs a 40 or 50 amp circuit.  Since the oven sparked, that would be the first place to look. Look for open or shorted wires.  Look in the junction box. Once you correct the problem, everything will work, but I would still recommend giving each appliance it's own circuit.

When you checked for voltage without it connected, you will get the proper readings but when it's connected to a load and shows something weird, it's an electrical outlet problem and needs an electrician to check it out.


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