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GE Refridgerator compressor not running

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As you all know, these boards have relays on them to send power to the compressor.   Same with on the EOC boards on ranges.   The boards input tells the compressor relay to close, and the contacts in the relay are the problem.   No power to the compressor, no start.  Brent@CanBC

 O0  Was my thinking.  Thank's Brent!  Now I'm really interested in the "jump" start method.  My thought is I just bypassed the relay or something smarter than myself, which is not hard to do, on the board to kick the compressor on but don't know.
Side note:  Have had to put a relay and a few tracers on a hot tub board for a customer because it's not made anymore and no one would touch it but it was with the customer's consent but I can't warranty my work when I start replacing board parts or tracers...not my expertise :P   I can do it just not very good at it :P   
Oh the hot tub is working great after the repair 2 year's later...still not going there when the board is available...especially in the snow and 17 (F)degrees out...brrrr :(

Faulty board. I see it all the time. Look on back of board and you'll probably see a burn on back side of relay. Regardless Replace board.

You said you unplug'd the molex plug in on the compressor.   You mean the "overload/relay" right, not molex plug in on the compressor.   And when you do that, it fires up and runs ok.
With the overload/relay "off" do you get 120 volts to the common female, if so that eliminates the board out put, and its (replace the overload/relay on the compressor)  If you "don't"  get 120 volts when the fridge is calling for cooling, at the common, then its  the relay on the board where the 120 comes from, thus replacing the board.
I got a jumper, that I attach directly to the compressor leads, common, start, run terminals,  and fire up the compressor to eliminate it as the cause.  Brent@CanBC

bad / loose solder connection on M/B Relay Pins ?


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