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« Last post by pursang on September 22, 2017, 05:36:02 AM »
We have an old freezer we can no longer get parts for, when the thermostat stopped working the freezer turned off, my husband bypassed the thermostat and the freezer is running great again but were having to unplug it from time to time so it won't cost so much to run, my question is, if we plug the freezer into a mechanical timer can you recommend a run time schedule appropriate to keep everything safely frozen ? we can't afford a new freezer and there are no used freezers available in our remote area at the moment, any help would be greatly appreciated !
« Last post by shillion on September 22, 2017, 03:20:48 AM »
Hello Gregaguilar,I think the hose that you attached to the schrader valve had a bad depresser so that it was not depressing on the shut off pin,so no refrigerant was flowing from the system to the gauge,therefore it showed 0 psig.When you put some refrigerant in ,the refrigerant was not going through to the system,it was stuck between the hose and the depressor,that's why it read 70 psig,which was the pressure of the refrigerant at 70degrees Fahrenheit.Does it make sense?
« Last post by dewitt8884 on September 21, 2017, 07:03:15 PM »
Anyone have the service manual on this? I tried using the one inside the unit and of course it doesn't have a listing for E54. The unit fills with water and then does nothing. I suspect the door lock. Wax motor ohm'd out at 1065 and I think it's supposed to be at 1500. Customer complains that the door has never shut 'right'.
« Last post by scrapiron on September 21, 2017, 03:28:18 PM »
In my experience, it will most likely stick again. The "points" or contacts become pitted and arc when they attempt to connect. This is what causes them to weld together. If you can find a vendor number on the relay, you might be able to find a replacement at http://www.mouser.com
« Last post by David Dave on September 21, 2017, 02:02:25 PM »
Recently our oven started getting really hot, I tracked the problem down to a welded oven relay, with the application of some preclusive maintenance I got the relay to open again. Is it likely that it will keep working normally again or should it be replaced?
I was debating replacing the two relays on the oven relay board (much cheaper then a new board) but if it's likely that they will just keep working I'd rather save the money.
« Last post by mistwist on September 21, 2017, 10:22:35 AM »
It was a problem inside our box. One of the Neutrals was loose. When I pulled it out it came apart. Needless to say we will be mounting not just the box that contains all the connections but also the pigtails from it today, the wiring in such a large gauge that were they stable it would never have happened.
« Last post by scrapiron on September 21, 2017, 09:16:33 AM »
The dryer motor has a non-serviceable overload protector built into it. Sounds like you need a new motor. There are 2 different motors used on that model, depends on the serial number.
« Last post by massination on September 21, 2017, 08:58:24 AM »
I'm having an issue where the dryer will turn on for 10 seconds and then turn off and make a click. During those 10 seconds it does seem to turn the drum just fine. This happens in "IntelliDry" mode and a manual timed mode. After a while (maybe 5-10 min), I can get it to turn back on, but it will cut off again in 10 seconds.
I have no idea with dryers, but i know with a fridge with a compressor it has that thermal switch that can overheat and cuts off the compressor until that switch cools down. haha no idea if something similar is happening here...obviously there is no compressor... but I would greatly appreciate any help!
« Last post by Draymc48 on September 20, 2017, 11:08:28 PM »
Hopefully I can shed I little light for anyone still follow this thread. I work for a factory authorized service company and we see these all the time. This bottom cabinet style has a few issues going on with it. On the rear panel some will notice condensation, rust, and/ or ice. In this event you will need to disassemble the air handler on the inside all the way to the back wall. Verify the drain line isn't frozen up.if drain ok you will need a rear panel moisture kit and updated air handler kit. I'll follow up with part numbers and more details.
« Last post by Draymc48 on September 20, 2017, 10:41:20 PM »
Hi A.J., names Dustin out of Raleigh, NC. Working with a small company here that primarily deals with first year warranty for most major appliance manufacturers. By night I'll tinker with just about anything. Helped out on various forums in the past with factory tips they give us. Hope to chat with you guys soon.
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