Author Topic: GE Side by side model GSS25JFPD CC s/n LG213183 coils only partially frosting  (Read 200 times)

Online robpmorrison

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I posted a problem I had on this forum a little over 2 years ago and you can find it here: http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=10716.msg53404#msg53404.  I was amazed that the post has been read almost 5500 times!  I hope that it was helpful to people.

The frig has been running fine but in the last couple of months it was leaking some water out of the freezer.  I turned off the water to the frig to see if the ice maker was leaking.  It still leaked.  I thought that the drain tube was clear as well but I have not had time to work on it.  I had to take a business trip and my wife called me and said that the frig was starting to freeze up.  It is always when you are away that these things happen.  She said she had turned it all the way down but things were still freezing.  I got home yesterday and started to take a look at it today.  We pulled everything apart in the freezer and found that the drain pipe was clogged so that answered why we were getting water coming out of the freezer.  Cleaned that out so it was flowing properly.

However after taking care of that and putting it all back together and letting it run for an hour the freezer will not get below 50 F in the top of it.  Down at the bottom it gets to 30 F.  I took off the panel covering the coils and it looks like only the bottom coils are frosting up.  I can touch the top ones and they are warm.  see the attached pictures.  I have read that if the coils only partially frost up that the sealed system has a problem and that you should just get a new refrigerator.  I am guessing because the cost of fixing the sealed system is not worth it.  Is that a proper assessment or is there something else I should be looking at?



Thanks for the help.

Online robpmorrison

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Also just to add to this.  the fans are running properly.  The condenser fan is working properly and the evaporator fan is working properly.  The evaporator fan is just blowing warm air.  The water in the crevice from the evaporator coils is freezing but that is most likely due to the fact that the evaporator coils are frosting up at the bottom but that is it.

Offline dab147315

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Let it run over night and then check frost pattern.

Online robpmorrison

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Here is my follow up.  I was unable to do it last night.  So the frig has run for almost 48 hours without me touching it.  The top of the freezer temperature stays at about 20 F and does not get any lower.  The bottom of the freezer gets closer to 0 but does not get there.  The freezer is turned all the way up for the coldest setting. I pulled off the cover over the coils and you can see that they are not frosting all the way over.  The top are warm to the touch.  I am guessing that this means the sealed system is no longer sealed and that the best thing I could do is to replace the frig.  But I am open to your thoughts.  See the pictures.  Thanks for the help.

Rob


Online robpmorrison

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Also just to clarify and give an update, the temp in the bottom of the freezer does not get below 10 F.

Offline keithvibe

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do you have an electrical meter that you can clamp around one of the compressor leads to check the amp draw. Just going by your current photos you appear to have a sealed system failure.

Offline domain

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I'd suspect sealed system failure. Either low on charge or partial blockage. More so on low charge

Online robpmorrison

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Thanks for your responses.  I can get my hands on a clamp on amp meter.  The question I have is what wire do I clamp it on.  I have attached 2 pages out of the repair manual for this model frig which has a schematic and a diagram of the compressor and the wires.  The next thing is what current should I expect to see?

If it is just low on charge why does that happen?  If it is low on charge is it easy to recharge?  I am assuming that I have to have a technician who can get their hands on the R134a material.

 If there is a blockage then how does the system keep running properly.  I would assume that the R134a needs to get back to the compressor.

If it is low on charge is that clear to be able to diagnose over it being a blockage or is it a hit and miss?  I don't want to have someone come out to charge it with R134a and then find out it is a blockage.

I have no idea what it would cost to have someone come out and give it a charge.  but my guess is well over $100 and maybe more in line with several $100.  I live in northern NJ so tech visits can be expensive.

At the end of the day if it makes more sense for me to just go and purchase a new frig then I will do it.  I don't want to end up spending and spending money on this only finding out after spending it all that I need a new system.

Thanks for your help and guidance on this.
Rob

Online robpmorrison

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I forgot to attach the pages so here they are.

Offline domain

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Low charge equals leak. Find and repair. Partial blockage is not operating properly. Someone correct me if wrong but low charge and block exhibit the exact same symptoms. Without actually tapping low and high side. Even then it's tricky

 

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