LG Dishwasher with LE error code

[mrbandit]

Boy am I glad I found this forum.  I bought a 6810ST about 4 years ago and this thing has been the biggest jalopy.  Anyhow, I just recieved the LE code two nights ago.  I found this forum, read this post and proceeded to take stuff apart.  When I got down to the impeller it would turn, but instead of a smooth spin it felt very gear like.  There was string inside the impeller, but that was it.  During my removal of the impeller I found out it had reverse threads, so I need a new impeller I know.     After a good cleaning of everything I reassemblied it and ran a cycle.  It went about 20 minutes before it threw the code again, but all along the way there was a terrible noise like a screw driver being drug across a wire mesh.  I quickly took it apart again and found the impeller very hard to turn and very hot to the touch.  After removing it I set it on the counter and noticed my reverse thread discovery\incident torqued the impeller and it was no longer straight I would say.  I don't know if that was the cause of the noise.  I had first thought it was the blade on that protection screen, but I didn't see any marks on the screen.

After this even would does it sound like only the motor & impeller need to be replaced?  I was thinking about replacing the whole assembly, but after seeing the price difference I would rather not.  I do know that after throwing the code and starting it again the pump that drains the water is working fine.

Thanks in advance.

[JWWebster]

Does it make the noise with the impeller removed?

[mrbandit]

I can say that it does not make the sound.  I can also say that if you remove everything, don't put back anything removed and run it....well you will need a mop.   

[JWWebster]

If it don't make no noise with the impeller removed I would say the motor must be ok.

[mrbandit]

I'm sorry, but I should have clarified that.  It did not make the previous sound.  It did make a sound that didn't sound too good, which is why I checked on it and found all of the water.   

Just to be sure...should the impeller\shaft turn smoothly or clunky\gear like?

[JWWebster]

Should be smooth. Clunky sound might mean a bad motor bearing. I don't mess with many dishwashers even though they pretty easy to fix most folks toss em and get another. You go putting a motor in there this week and next week you need a control board ain't worth a dang.

[mrbandit]

I hear that.  You'd think for $1k it would be indestructable.  Don't even ask about my LG fridge that almost caught fire.  And to think I sold a 77 Trans Am to buy all top of the line appliances for our new house.

[AJ]

You'd think for $1k it would be indestructable

If you can replace the motor yourself I would consider spending the money to fix it.
It's not like your going to buy another dishwasher for $1k and end up with anything better.

Enter the full model number of your dishwasher in our parts search box at the top of the page to see just how much a motor is for it.

Don't even ask about my LG fridge that almost caught fire.

I would really love to hear that story. What happen?

And to think I sold a 77 Trans Am to buy all top of the line appliances for our new house.

Ouch!

[JWWebster]

You had a smokey and the bandit style trans am? Wow.

[mrbandit]

Yep, it was a true Y82 Black and Gold just like the movie car.  Sold it at 5pm one day for $14,500 and spent $9k at Home Depot that night.   

I guess I'll spring for the motor and items at $100, but seeing that there are at least 5-7 stainless DW at Lowes for a little over $300 it makes it a hard decision. 

As for the fridge.  I have a bottom freezer pull out with the double door unit.  One day morning while making lunch for the kids I opened the doors, took out my sandwich stuff and when I went back to the fridge about 45 seconds later the entire light assembly had melted on the top shelf and it was like walking into a sauna.  It was a year out of warranty, but LG was happy to pay for the repairs.  Apparently the clear bulbs(2) are high wattage bulbs.  The controller board fried and sent full wattage instead of the 10 watts the repairman said it was supposed too.  I received some class action lawsuit papers in the mail, so it wasn't a freak thing.  I was lucky, but others weren't. 

[mrbandit]

Oh yeah, I'm restoring a 79 400\4spd TA now.   

[john63]

All LG 6810 dishwashers had flawed WASH MOTORS.

Replace the entire SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604).

Many non-LG parts distributors still sell the older (also flawed) SUMP ASSYs.

If you decide to order only the WASH MOTOR---there's no method of determining whether or not the motor is the *improved* version. Not worth the risk.

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<<<When I got down to the impeller it would turn, but instead of a smooth spin it felt very gear like.>>>

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An indication of a failing WASH MOTOR (chirping/grinding noise during wash).
The WASH MOTOR begins to "degrade" over time and runs at a slower RPM (poor cleaning).
Eventually it runs slow enough that the computer triggers an "LE" error.

Other problems with the earlier LG dishwashers (built before May 2008) were:

1) The insulation/sound deadener on the DOOR caused wiring damage (pulled apart)

2) The VENT/DUCT inside the door was too small and also "directed" condensation back into
    the tub during the DRY CYCLE (it's now vent to the atmosphere)

3) The DRAIN HOSE was redesigned in later models to prevent *siphoning* of wash water
    during a cycle. If not installed correctly---the 6810 dishwasher can "lose" wash water and
    trigger an error message of: "1E".

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<<<Don't even ask about my LG fridge that almost caught fire.>>>
<<<I was lucky, but others weren't.>>>

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A problem found in many LG French Door refrigerators built within a specific time frame (certain model years).

While it is common for me hear (justifiably,I might add):

"There could have been a fire"
"I was worried that the refrigerator might burn-down my home"

I am not aware of a single incidence of a report or claim that a fire occurred in an LG refrigerator due to light bulbs being "stuck-on" with the doors closed.

No recall has been issued by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CSPC) nor from the Canadian equivalent.

During an investigation by the consumer protection agencies---it has been labeled:
"A low-risk for fire hazard".

LG has offered a lifetime warranty for any & all repairs needed (parts & labor) to correct this complaint/failure (caused by a "frozen" relay on the MAIN BOARD).

The wattage of the lightbulbs were not excessive---nor did the MAIN BOARD "send/deliver" too much current/electricity to the lightbulbs.

The replacement lightbulb housing contains a THERMOSTAT---which will shut off the lightbulbs if they remain "on".
The new relay on the MAIN BOARD is much larger and less prone to failure.

[mrbandit]

Thanks for all of that info on the DW.  I will take your advice and look into the newer assembly.

As for the fridge, when I did call LG that day the support tech said there was an internal recall that superceded the warranty time.  I didn't argue with them, as I was happy to have the repair.  I was suprised to find two 60 watt clear bulbs in the housing.  Why would someone need 120watts in a fridge?  They assured me it was fixed, but I removed the two bulbs and installed one appliace bulb.  I fell better now.

[mrbandit]

I took John's advice and purchased the newer assembly and it was different from the factory part.  It seems a sensor (M087) moved from beside a small motor (M026) to the front of the unit by itself, so I had to reroute the wire in the harness.  Oh and the rubber seal around the unit was a much better design in my opinion.  The original only had the top area (visible in the DW) and one thin rib just below it to help hold back the water.  Judging by my floor and the area below that it had been leaking before all of this.  The new rubber seal is thicker, and had at least 4 or 5 ribs below the top area.  I'm sure it will help with leaks, but it sure made installing the unit difficult.  I was sure I was going to bend the frame trying to get it in, but it didn't thankfully.  I had forgotten how quiet the unit should run.  I had the DW on my back patio and let it run there last night.  I bought an adapter to hook the water line to my garden hose and used an old three wire drop cord to plug it to the receptacle.  At first it thru an E1 code after 15 minutes, which the manual said was a water leak detection.  I remebered from a post on here that this unit required the drain hose loop to be above the vent.  The original 12ft drain hose split last year and I used a universal replacement hose and looped it under the counter.  On my paito I just set the hose on the patio, so taped the hose to a patio chair to elevate it and that fixed that issue.  It ran fine last night and I started it again this morning.

Originally when I was going to just replace the moter, impeller and gaskets I was looking at $110 plus shipping.  The entire unit plus shipping was $164 from repairclinic and it came with the better motor per John.  The replacment unit with the original motor design is $186 before shipping.

Hopefully this unit will be fine for a while and thanks so much to everyone who helped.

[john63]

<<< it was different from the factory part.  It seems a sensor (M087) moved from beside a small motor (M026) to the front of the unit by itself, so I had to reroute the wire in the harness.>>>

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The TURBIDITY/SOIL SENSOR was relocated to the *front* of the dishwasher.

It's best to leave the sensor ***unplugged***.
Doing so---will improve washability results---by eliminating a feature of the "computer" that is monitoring the state (or condition) of the wash water during the cycle.
This sensor can ***reduce***total cycle run time (sometimes too agressively).
Disconnecting the plug from the TURBIDITY SENSOR allows the selected cycle to run in it's entirety.
NOTE: Removing the plug from the sensor will NOT trigger an error message.

NOTE 2: The plug can be disconnected from the sensor by simply removing the lower KICKPLATE.
              May need to use needlenosed pliers to reach it.

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<<<The new rubber seal is thicker, and had at least 4 or 5 ribs below the top area.  I'm sure it will help with leaks, but it sure made installing the unit difficult.>>>

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Applying a thin coating of SILICONE GREASE to the stainless steel lip of the tub---allows the SUMP ASSY to be installed effortlessly.

Good job on your repair