Front Load HE washer - clothes wet after spin dry

[macfix]

Kenmore Elite HE Front Load Washer Model 110.42822200
Sears tech found nothing wrong - no error code but clothes still wet any ideas?

[AJ]

Hi,

I would suspect a faulty drain pump as theoldstoveguy suggested here.

Re: kenmore elite front load washer wont spin completely dry


Here are the parts for your model washer.

Kenmore Washing Machine Model 110.42822200 Parts


Here is the drain pump for your washer if you need to order it.


Drain Pump, Part # 280187 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

[Kel1guy]

I agree with AJ to a point about the pump or possibly a kinked drain hose.  You did not mention if the spin speed was slower than normal.  If the pump passages, hoses and drain function are normal, you will have to look at the balance switches as a possible cause also.  If one of them is out of adjustment the spin cycle will cease and the drum will start reversing trying to re-balance the load.... all the while the machine will never reach a fast spin speed.   I have had balance switches (especially the upper one) not show up as errors yet after multiple customer call backs and just for the heck of it swapping out 3 switches, the darned thing stopped the wet clothes at the end of the spin cycle routine.  (for what it is worth....) 

[bigbuck]

has this been fixed, or do you still need help?

[macfix]

Thanks for your suggestions.  dismantled and cleaned out dishwasher last night - now back to this.  In my next lifetime remind me to stagger my appliance purchases - everything here is about 10 years old and demanding attention !

The Pump was new only a year ago... the balance switches sound like a possibility or the worn belt (see post below) - heading down to take things apart clean and see what I find..  Are the balance switches tricky to replace?

see also...
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=7392.msg34168#msg34168

[Kel1guy]

First, the balance switches are not difficult to change.  However, if this machine is 9 years old and your sure there is not a drain problem I would start checking suspension springs.  They eventually get tired and what happens is that you do not get a high speed spin because the springs don't stabilize the wash tub.  Try this with the door open:
1. Push the tub off center every 90 degress and see if it re-centers and maybe hangs a tad l;ow at the 6 O'clock position.   I.e push the tub up at 12, right at 3, down at 6 and left at 9 O'clock positions.  It should re-center itself each time. If it does not re-center in a particular quadrant you probably have at least one bad suspension spring.  Wish you the best!   

[macfix]

Kelly
the drum returns to center so I'll assume suspension springs are good for now.

Now I want to check the belt and the balance switches you mentioned.  I can not spot them in the Parts List diagram. Repair Parts List is Kenmore Part No. 8181798.  Could not find one on line to refer you to but I can scan and post if you don't have one on hand. 
Does the balance switch have a different name ?  Tub and Basket Parts section lists an "NTC".
Under "Top and Cabinet Parts" number 23 is "switch, pressure"

where are the balance switches mounted?

just getting oriented before I open it up... another day, soon.

[Kel1guy]

I have to admit an arror on my part.  After looking at the parts diagram I had a keen sense of the obvious.  This is a COMPACT washer vs a full sized one.  The COMPACT washers do not have the balance switches I mentioned.  There is one sensor on this unit and it is on the bottom of the front of the tub at the 6 o'clock position (Sensor-ntc that is item 24 in the sears parts direct diagram).  The guys that were talking about checking the belt were correct.  You have pretty much ruled out the pump or the drain hoses.  That leaves you with the belt as the next prime suspect.  Look on the inside of the belt groves and see if it is shiny... if it is shiny in places the belt is slipping.  If the belt is not loose then you have to start looking at things like the tub bearing that you can NOT replace unless you order the over $350.00 part that has the bearing in it.  Also the motor bearings.  Usually if you have a bearing problem you have excess noise though.  After all of the above then your faces with a motor controller change and finally the electronich control.  Each of those is over $300.00 so unless you can can come up with a code... I do NOT recommend changing them.  It is actually cheaper to call for service than it is to swap parts are your expense.   However depending on the parts source I do believe there is a 30 day return policy on the repair clinic site.  Hate to say it but that is reality. Sorry for the bum info earlier.  The larger units have the balance switches.  The COMPACT units do not have them. 
 

[AJ]

However depending on the parts source I do believe there is a 30 day return policy on the repair clinic site. 

RepairClinic.com has a 365 day return policy as does AppliancePartsPros.com