kenmore frig model 253.68802010 not cooling and evaporator froze

[mr.piglit]

I have been looking for a service manual for this refrigerator but can't find one.  I saw a few diagrams on Appliance parts pro, but not much.  It looks to me like there is no control board.  Without a manual I can't tell.  So without a control board I am thinking it might be the defrost timer or heater.  does anyone have a manual for download.  It looks pretty simple as far as the inside of the refrigerator goes.  The serial number is BAO2610407 if that might help.  I am wondering since this is a newer frig, only a little over a year old why there is no control board, I thought most new refrigerators came with a control board.

[RegUS_PatOff]

no Control Board...
just Defrost Timer, Defrost Heater, and Defrost Thermostat

[mr.piglit]

Yea I gathered that after looking a little closer at the diagrams on another site.  Pretty simple.   My cousin called me about this frig, so I got the model number and checked it out.  Works pretty good for me when i am in doubt about an appliance.  Helps to have some diagrams.  I was thinking of getting a laptop and taking it with me on service calls.  That way you could just pop up a manual if your doing a job.  Not that everyone needs one, but I like them.

[theoldstoveguy]

I use a tablet, much easier than a laptop. It has a faster loading Droid OS.

[jumptrout51]

What is wrong with this refrigerator?

[mr.piglit]

The fridge isn't cooling in the lower part.  The evaporator is iced up.  Fan is working.  Could be several things to look at.  I am thinking it may be the defrost thermostat.  But I wouldn't know without looking at it.  Could be heater, timer, something blocking airflow.  Wouldn't know unless I looked at it.  What do you think!

[jumptrout51]

I would turn the defrost timer until it switches into the defrost mode.
I would have a meter set for amps attached to a incoming power supply wire.
If there were no amp draw I would test and replace the defrost thermostat.
If there is amp draw I would replace the defrost timer.
The calrod heaters on these rarely go bad.

[handsmcgee]

I would also check your defrost limit. Just throwing in my two cents.

[mr.piglit]

I would have a meter set for amps attached to a incoming power supply wire.If there were no amp draw I would test and replace the defrost thermostat.----  Haven't tried that technique yet!

 If there is amp draw I would replace the defrost timer.---  I would think there should be some amp draw from heater.       

 I would also check your defrost limit. Just throwing in my two cents ---Didn't know there was a defrost limit.  Diagram I saw didn't show one!                                                                                                                                                                                 

[jumptrout51]

If the heater is working the amps will be 3.5 to 5.0.
The defrost "LIMIT" is the defrost thermostat.

[mr.piglit]

Thanks for tip.  3.5 amps sounds reasonable for the Heater.  Anything beyond that would indicate a bad timer motor.  I usually test closest to the part I think is bad.  But that would be a good way to test first and see if there is an indication of a bad part.  Thanks!  My cous hasn't called me back yet.  I told him to let the fridge defrost and see if it starts working again.  If there are any more problems I told him to call.  He lives in the country a little ways from my location.  I know some fridges have a limit thermostat, but I haven't delt with that to much.

[handsmcgee]

Sorry I ment thermostat. we have always called them limits due to our service dept in a/c get confused when you call it a thermostat, they relate to the limits switches in heating equip. They both have a c/i and c/o temp and they understand that concept

[mr.piglit]

Sorry I ment thermostat. we have always called them limits due to our service dept in a/c get confused when you call it a thermostat, they relate to the limits switches in heating equip. They both have a c/i and c/o temp and they understand that concept.  That makes more since.  But I would swear I have seen fridges with two thermostats.[/color] Like I said though, I haven't done much of that work.  Mostly changing control boards.  Limit switches are more common in heating equipment like clothes driers.  Good info.  thanks!
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[JADsvc1]

Just a quick FYI on this model; it is an Electrolux-built unit out of Anderson, SC, built 26th week of 2010. Use Frigidaire service manual 5995345245 (Frigidaire Refrigerator Next Generation Top Mounts Service Manual) available via this website for basic service information. Being a Sears unit, tech manuals with the data sheets are only available for Sears techs, but there should be a service data sheet hidden in the unit, either behind the kickplate or under/beside the compressor. Unless they decided to take them out to save money. Argh!

There were a few problems not released to the field in service bulletins. Check defrost thermostat for separation due to moisture entering the case and freezing, thus separating and rendering the t-stat useless. Also check drain tube under evap for block/freeze up. I ran into a few where the drain pan was malformed or damaged during manufacture, causing water to run down behind it and under the pan and instead of draining out it pooled, froze and blocked the tube. Also ran into ones where the thin foam sheet behind the evap assy was not properly attached and it slid down under the metal drain trough and blocked the drain.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

[mr.piglit]

Actually without looking at the unit, my feelings about this unit  lie in those areas.  That is why I told him to let it thaw out then plug it back in.  May just be a blocked drain tube or simply froze up due to unusual circumstances that sometimes happen to refrigerators.  I've seen fridges freeze up for various reasons, not enough airflow, clogged drain tube, dirty coils.  He hasn't called me back so I assume the fridge is fixed, at least temporary. If he has the same problem again I told him to call me.  If he does he will.  Thanks for the info.  And the manual.