Frigidaire Affinity Front Loader Switch Interference Prevents Washer Start

[stanjunk]

The front panel of my Frigidaire Affinity Front Loader has been forced to buckle in slightly inward at the center when mounted. This warpage has caused the speed control button, mounted in the front panel, to activate its associated microswitch, without anyone pressing it. The result is that the controller board gets confused, and shuts down. WIth the front panel/controller assembly removed from the washer, the button releases. That proves its not a permanent warp in the plastic front panel.  It's as if the punch holes in the washer mounting surface have moved. Could the sheet metal have developed a warp or bowing in that area? I'm not a body shop tech. so I wouldn't know where to start pounding on the machine to straighten things out. Right now, I have backed off the screws holding the controller assembly, to the front panel. That keeps the speed switch from contacting, but now I have to press front panel buttons deep into their slots because the controller board is so loose. Something could snap. Anyone else have this problem, and solved it without using my Rube Goldberg solution?

[bigbuck]

never have heard of this problem stanjunk, but i can not look @ the frigidaire database & look up this problem without a model number.
 
                                                        thank you

[jumptrout51]

Can you post pictures of this issue?

[JADsvc1]

Stanjunk:

There's no service bulletin on this issue from 2006 to present, and I can't say I've heard of it before as being a 'common' problem. Most likely isolated to that unit and due to a physical issue with the unit. To best troubleshoot the issue, you really need to provide a model number so we can identify exactly what unit you have, as there are numerous style units under the 'Affinity' moniker. Posting a picture of where you see the cabinet bent would help. Chances are the front is buckled in and needs straightened. I've seen that happen after a unit walks from an out of balance spin cycle and someone pushes on the center of the cabinet while pushing it back into place. There isn't much support there.

JAD

[stanjunk]

JADsvc1:
I did try to post the model and serial a while ago, but for some reason the moderator didn't put through my post. Here it is again:
Model: ATF6700FS1
S/N XC80910374
The washer worked fine for 3 years. Then my wife complained the speed control button would intermittently stick. It finally stuck permanently. I removed the panel/controller assembly and the button popped back out. I reinstalled the assembly, and told my wife to never use the speed control button again. Then, one day, it stuck when my wife hit the start button. That's when I backed off the screws to keep the speed control microswitch at a distance from the button frame. We're talking about just a few millimeters, or less between stuck, and not. Nobody ran a truck into the washer, or dropped heavy objects onto it. I don't want to take pictures of the situation since that involves disassembling a very delicate working solution. If it stops working again, I'll post photos.
-stan

[DerekF]

If you have taken apart the console and pcb assembly. please double check the springs behind the button as it can out of position.  I've had them jam up on me upon reinstallation.  I just don't rememeber too much about the affinity model, but it should be fairly similar to the 970 front loading machines made in that time frame.  I highly doubt that cabinet would be twisted, but a damaged console cover would be more likely.

Mind you I've come across brand new LG ranges with oven liner rack slots to be out in height about 0.5"  causing all your racks to be slanted.

[stanjunk]

Springs?  If you mean metal coil springs...not on this model. It uses plastic frames behind the buttons. It's a torsion system. The button pushes on the plastic frame which bends and contacts the microswitch. The "springy" plastic frame returns to a flat position when the pressure is released. These frames take the place of metal springs. I did take a careful look at all the "torsion frames" on all the buttons. They all look, and seat identically. There is nothing different about the speed control frame visible to the naked eye.

[JADsvc1]

Hi Stanjunk:

Thanks for the model & serial number. Per your serial number, the unit was built in March 2008, so I checked all the service bulletins from 2007 forward that could apply to this and similar models. I found nothing listed regarding the control having problems like your machine.

I am a bit confused about one point. You state before that 'The front panel of my Frigidaire Affinity Front Loader has been forced to buckle in slightly inward at the center when mounted. This warpage has caused the speed control button, mounted in the front panel, to activate its associated microswitch, without anyone pressing it.' however in your last post you state that that 'it worked fine for three years' and 'Nobody ran a truck into the washer, or dropped heavy objects onto it.' Since we are not able to physically inspect the unit, we have to go by your observations. So, if we base a diagnosis on the statement in your first post that you noticed that the control panel is being forced to buckle in the center when mounted, then that leads us to conclude that something got bent after three years of trouble-free use and needs straightened. However, going on your last post, there may be several possible issues to check and fix. I may suspect that the 'torsion' springs behind the buttons are weakening, which would necessitate a parts replacement (item #12, P/N 134884900, Spring, push button) or somehow the control panel became warped and may need replaced. I have seen a number of these control panel corners crack and break at the end where the dispenser drawer slides in, which I suppose could lead to poor alignment and twisting, but I can't say I've run into one that warped on it's own.

I assume when you say you you have to loosen screws you are referring to those holding the main control board & housing (item #1 in parts breakdown) to the control panel? The best I can suggest at this time is to check and remedy the following, if you haven't already done so:

1 - Make sure the button area is clean around the openings in the control panel and control board, as softeners and detergents can dry and congeal, causing things to stick.

2 - Be sure the unit is sitting level, as the cabinet can twist and could cause a twist in the control panel (not normal, but possible)

3 - Verify free movement of buttons on control with panel removed from cabinet. If you have free movement of the buttons with the control tightened down on the control panel but the control panel out of the unit, but once mounted it sticks, then you definitely have a cabinet issue. If you tighten down the control on the control panel and the button sticks before you mount the control panel to the unit, then your issue is in that area.

4 - Check / straighten cabinet where control panel mounts if needed.

If all these seem OK, then you may need to replace the push button springs. Sorry if I can't give you a definite 'this is it' fix, as all we can do is try to guide you from your observations. This just isn't one of those problems with a clear cut solution.

Let us know how it goes.

JAD

[stanjunk]

Hi JADsvc1,


Very grateful for your observations. Just to be clear, when I first mentioned "warpage", that was only a guess. I never saw any warpage, I just guessed it had to be happening because:


With Control Panel/Microcontroller assembly removed from washer the Speed Control button never stuck.

With Control Panel/Microcontroller assembly installed the Speed Control button always stuck at the time I first posted this problem.

Therefore, I made a guess it was warpage when installed. I do intend to purchase the front panel subassembly if my kludge repair fails. You're right to suggest the plastic spring may be weak. It makes sense. As far as cabinet leveling, the washer is perfectly level side-to-side, but it is tilted forward about a third of a bubble (whatever that is in degrees). Two years ago I herniated a disk, and now can't lift anything over 35 pounds so I'll have to wait for my son to come home to level the machine's forward tilt.

-stan

[DerekF]

how about filing the striker/contact point on the button about 1 mm, then it won't hit the microswitch on the board? Sometimes, those methods are manufacturer approved. That way you won't have to spend too much time and effort to locate another console.  Good luck.