Problems with Epic Z Washer MHWZ600TK

[chriswlfp]

This is a front loader. The wash cycle does not start. The door latches, then the motor makes a regular "ticking" sound (very quiet) and gets a bit warm to the touch, but nothing happens after that (I unplugged the washer to stop it, due to concern about the motor). The diagnostic test yields an F-11 failure code, which is the motor control unit (MCU). All of the wire bundles seem to be properly connected. The motor continuity test passes. Is there a good chance replacing the MCU will resolve the problem?

The next problem appears to be the bearing at the back of the tub, as it is making a sound when I manually turn the tub (more than what I expect a normal sound would be). The bearing problem isn't yet noticeable during the spin cycle, but I've read that the bearing can be problematic with this model. From what I can tell, the entire tub assembly must be purchased to replace the bearing, as a simple bearing replacement kit is not available. What I would like to find out: is it possible to remove the bearing and match it with a third-party bearing assembly?

In July of 2009, we purchased a matching Epic Z washer/dryer pair that are dark blue, so they are about 2.5 years old. Because of this, there is some incentive to repair the washer. However, I suspect the best thing to do would be to sell the dryer and buy something new.


Model MHWZ600TK00

[Mettalikatt]

Our company passes on replacement of the rear bearing,  i hear it's a big pain in the butt,  it all comes down to cost in your situation,  unfortunately you have a very blue,  very matching set of machines,  hopefully someone else can provide us some information regarding the repair of the rear bearing assembly

Sent from my DROID RAZR

[JWWebster]

A while back a fellow submitted a nice article about replacing his tub bearings:
From the Forum:
Duet washer started getting louder and louder during the spin cycle. When I manually turned the basket I could feel that the bearings were shot. A quick search of the internet confirmed that this problem was no fluke. I found an illustrated parts breakdown of my washer online, and saw that Whirlpool only offers a replacement rear tub assembly, at a cost of $408. Needless to say, I was peeved. I paid about $960 two years ago for this machine, and now it will require $6-700 in repairs. Unacceptable. So, having a mechanical background, I started to tear into the machine myself. I tore it all the way down to the rear tub half. I found what appeared to be the problem with my machine, hair. Hair worked its way to the bearing area, slowed unseated the seal, and then acted as a conduit for water to enter the bearing cavity. The seal itself actually looked fine. Yet the steel hub that the bearings are pressed into was badly corroded, as were the bearings, and even the driveshaft had corrosion on it. I pounded out the cheap factory bearings, cleaned up the bearing cavity and driveshaft, and replaced them with some higher quality Toyo's from my local bearings and drive store, P/N's 6206ZZC3 & 6205ZZC3. Unfortunately they didnt have a suitable replacement seal in stock. I didnt damage the factory one too badly upon removal, so I straightened it up with a couple of hammer taps, made sure it sealed nicely against the driveshaft, and reused it. The new bearings cost me $20. I made sure I sent a nastygram to Whirlpool, they offered me a replacement rear tub for 50% off, I told them to stick it. Hopefully I get at least 3 more years out of it, I've already started looking for my next machine, I'm likely going to buy a SpeedQueen. Anyways, if your tub bearings are shot and you have the will, they can be replaced yourself for a fraction of the cost of a factory rear tub half. My advice, take notes during disassembly, keep all the hardware from the different components you remove separated from one another. Dont be afraid to use permanent marker to write reminders directly on the components as theyll be hidden inside the reassembled washer when done. I did the repairs by myself, having a helper wouldve made things much easier. As for tools, I was shocked at how few I actually needed. A nut driver or torx apex, a 1/2" socket and rachet, some slip joint pliers, a wrench to remove the drive pulley, and a hammer and punch to remove/install the bearings.

[JWWebster]

http://foggyfacts.blogspot.com/2011/11/duet-front-loader-tub-replacement_09.html

[JWWebster]

8178686 Maytag Epic Z Washer Service Repair Manual

[JWWebster]

http://foggyfacts.blogspot.com/2011/12/front-loader-bearing-replacement-video.html

[chriswlfp]

Thanks for all of the info regarding the bearings. I will probably make use of it after the bearings start to make more noise.

Regarding the inability of the washer to start, I was able to resolve it. I purchased a new motor control unit online and replaced it (got a great price, nearly one-half of what I would have paid at a local appliance store). After doing so, I kept the front and back panels off so I could observe. The first load washed just fine, but I noticed water on the metal plate that forms the bottom of the washer (there was considerable evidence of previous leaks ... mostly dried soap). So, I ran another wash and closely observed. This time, when the pump was running that empties the tub, I noticed a very small stream of water coming out of the waste water pipe that landed on the motor control unit housing, which is probably what eventually damaged the unit I had just replaced. After removing the waste water pipe, it was obvious the pipe had been deeply scratched, probably when the machine was manufactured. At one point, the scratch was just deep enough to go through the pipe itself, making a tiny hole. I ordered a new one from the same company from which I bought the motor control unit.

I do a lot of auto maintenance (for example, replacing head gaskets). Working on this washer was much easier than even some of the more simple auto repair tasks. You don't get nearly as dirty, and use fewer tools. It is just a matter of reading the manual and getting familiar with how the machine is put together.


Washer Electronic Motor Control Unit MCU Part # W10163007