rsg257aars Samsung Compressor Inverter Board Blowing Fuses

[sherlocktk]

I have a samsung rsg257aars fridge bought 2-20-10 so outside of the bumper to bumbre warranty, but inside the "compressor system" warranty.

Couple of days ago the compressor stopped working at all.  I took off rear panel to diagnose and the fuse (2 amp from factory) on the inverter board has blown.  (but barely blown as in over current, not a direct short).  This model of refridgerator has 2 cicruit boards, one which handles all of the sensors and it sends information to the inverter board as to what speed to run the compressor (off, high, medium, low).  As found in a service manual for a fridge similar to mine, Windings of the motor are all at 9.1 ohms each, overload switch is working as expected and the main circuit board is "triggering" it to start properly. 

$95 later the technican came out and said its a bad board, I asked him "why" (he did not even look at the fuse or anything, just checked the ohms on the motor windings)  I then showed him when I replaced the fuse its a "slow blow" meaning the wire goes into a nice U on startup and then breaks after about 4 or 5 seconds.   I am just not buying the "bad board" story.  So i get a 5 amp normal size fuse and solder it to the little fuse with 3 inch jumper wires on the board and put my amp meter around it to see what is happening.  On initial "cold" startup of the compressor (off for 15 minutes)  it starts at 2.8 amps for about 10 seconds then drops to 1.4 amps (and the compressor audibly slows to a lower speed).  When I force the refridgerator to run the compressor in "high" via the front keypad the compressor pulls 2.3 amps continiously.  After runnning for 5 minutes I shot the circuit board with the IR tempature gun, nothing more than 102 degrees.  Trying to figure out where the extra energy is going, its not in the circuitboard, It would be like having a 60 watt soldering iron in there.   

Here is the problem. Tech said that there company would replace BOTH curcuit boards for an estimate of $450.  If the fuse still keeps tripping its the compressor, which would be covered under warrantly.  After talking with the tech some more (once he realized I knew what I was talking about) he said its probably just the inverter board, replace that and it will work.  That part has a online cost of about $87.  If the part does not fix it, something is wrong with the compressor.   

What is the best way to go here?  My hunch is the inveter board is working properly and something is worng with the freon levels so the compressor is not getting adequate internal lubrication, increasing the amp draw of the motor.  How do I "proove" this without spending $550 on parts I probably dont need?

[niobrara]

Call samsung give them your story and they might send you the invertor board. I have had them be very good on board issues. Its great to have hunch's however you know the board is bad Give them a call.

[AJ]

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/


1.800.726.7864


Let us know what they tell you.

[sherlocktk]

Thanks for the input. I will try and call tommorrow am but I don't know their holiday schedule. I will post an update once I get more info

[wildimaginations]

Samsung had the same issues with their earlier model dishwashers.  Their 15a fuses kept failing.  Were told to install replacement 20a fuses and problem is resolved.  Found out that the amp usage peaked out at close to 15a when they're running the heating element.  It's possible that the engineers did the same thing with the low amp fuses on their boards.  Hopefully the replacement board will have the higher amp fuse.

[sherlocktk]

Here is some more fuel to the fire.

printed on the inverter circuit board right below the fuse holder is

"FH1 F5/6.3AL 250V"  This seems to be a common rating for fuses also.

The fuse installed in the device was a common 2a 250v 5x20mm fuse.  I am wondering if the wrong size fuse was installed by the factory in assembly error which still passed as the smaller fuse was almost big enough for the job.

Does anyone have any docuementation that states the fuse size on the inverterboard.  Maybe in the full service manual instead of the fast track troubleshooting manual I have been referencing?

I tried calling samsung today.  None of there level 1 or 2 Customer support were able to help this issue.  They suggested tech support on Monday, trying their parts distributor to get someone to look at a new board to check the fuse rating.  Not having much luck due to the holidays.  (but home depot does have the right size fuse)

[sherlocktk]

Samsung Tech support is just useless for end users.  After 1 hour on the phone getting tossed from department to department I got no resolution. 

I have put in a 6 amp fuse and run the fridge for 2 days/  After I put it in after afew hours I hit the circuit board with my IR temp gun.  No hot spots, nothing over 100 degrees.  Everything is working well.  I believe the factory installed the wrong fuse.  It seems un-likely that the refrigerant compressor would never take more than 240 watts anyway so I am pretty comfortable with my decision.  I would still like to see some written documentation on what the proper part is. 

In watching the amp draw on the compressor only, it appears the compressor only draws more than 2 amps when the regridgerator and freezer is warm or just starting up after a power cycle. This would explain why it "worked" for 1.5 years or so.  I guess I just got lucky when I first plugged it in.

[wildimaginations]

Very good.  Have a Happy New Year.