Author Topic: Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video  (Read 34179 times)

Offline AJ

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    • - Appliance Repair
Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2014, 07:00:13 PM »
and the video...

Bearing Kit Part #  W10435302

Tool Part # W10447783

Hope you find our site helpful.

Offline afterblast

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  • Member Since: Feb 2013
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I do a lot of these.. one thing not specifically mentioned above... open the kit and make sure all the parts are in it before you start pulling the washer apart..

I ordered 2 of these kits at once for separate jobs last week, was doing the return to install on the first one Monday, had it torn apart, opened the kit and found that it was missing a new seal  :tickedoff: ....   figured I'd take one out of the other kit and then express another seal....   opened the second kit on the truck, and found it had 2 seals packed in it  :D  .... someone in the packing department at whirlpool was having a bad day  ;D.... I lucked out.. but if your missing the seal and don't have a spare you may be out a washer untill you can get a new one in... or any of the parts for that matter... 

Offline steverw

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  • Member Since: Jan 2014
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I found this thread very helpful.  I was able to change out the bearings.  I thought I would offer some additional warnings: 1) when you get to the point of removing the stator, be aware that it is heavy and may fall off when you loosen the last screw; mine fell only a few inches, but it was enough to break off some plastic tabs on a couple of the stator windings. 2) be careful putting the stator back on: in my case one of the screws wasn't quite lined up right and started to strip the thread, it seems the material is quite soft 3) I found I had to lay the washer on it's side to be able to get the stator to sit properly while putting in the mounting screws, it was not lining up right when the shaft was at an angle 4) maybe it's obvious, but make sure the wiring to the stator is well clear of the space the rotor will sweep through, 5) I was not able to lift the inner tub out, I had to first take off the motor and pull out the tub with the shaft still in it. which I then hammered out.

Now that it's done, the bearing sound is gone, but it seems to me that there is more shaking when the tub is spinning at high speed.  By "shaking" I mean
violent shaking, you might call it hammering.  Maybe I need new suspension rods, but they looked OK.  I'm wondering if my tub is out of balance now and if there is anything I can do about it.  It's not so much that I mind the vibration, but the violent shaking can't be good for the new bearings.  Any advice?

Thank you to the previous posters, your comments really helped.  :thanks:


Offline Maintech

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  • Member Since: Mar 2014
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I carry 3 bungie cords in my house bag, I use one to hold the lid closed when lifting the top of a washer. In most houses I find that I can use one of the other two to hold the top up by hanging off a shelf or pipe. Also I do not normally pull the recirc hose just pop the cover up and bungie to the top.

Offline mccoolj

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  • Member Since: Oct 2014
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I'm doing this repair, and I have to say this post has been a lifesaver! One question though. I can't tell from the B/W pictures or from the video which way the seal goes in. Everything else has gone pretty smooth, and I just don't want to install this last critical part upside down, especially with it being glued in. The new bearing kits come with a seal that has a garter spring (circular spring) in a groove on one side of the seal to press in on the shaft and keep a seal better than the original I took out that didn't have that. Can anyone tell me if it goes spring side up or down? Instructions with blurry pictures that came with it say to make sure the spring doesn't come out of the groove... so I'm guessing the spring side goes up? Otherwise, it would be hard to know if it came out of the groove when it's underneath and not visible as you press it in.... :-\
One other thing I would add to this discussion is to unscrew the two 1/4" bolts holding the trap in the sump and clean it out while doing this - I did just to make sure it wasn't clogged or anything and ours was disgusting! Made sense to do it while it's all taken apart. Thanks again for the very helpful site and this specific post!

Offline bmaverick

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  • Member Since: Feb 2015
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I get the gist of the repair procedure, however knowing how long these washers tend to self destruct the bearings 5 to 7 years, I do not want to keep repeating this about twice every decade.   :P

As for the bearings in the replacement kit, nothing is said if these bearings are stainless.  They are with EPDM seals that are semi-protected, but over time will gather liquid again and fail.  I would rather find some better grade completely sealed/containing bearings like that in automotive that would last several decades.   McMaster-Carr shows various bearing types, also Granger too.

Anyone know the bearing sizes before I have to take my machine apart? 

I may still need to order the repair kit for the replacement shaft and the other parts.  Just the bearings I have an issue with.

« Last Edit: February 18, 2015, 10:48:57 AM by bmaverick »


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