Author Topic: Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video  (Read 26209 times)

Offline AJ

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Replacement Bearing Procedure for Whirlpool Cabrio Top Load Washers



Bearing Kit Part #  W10435302






Tool Part # W10447783














Hope you find our site helpful.

Offline bigbuck

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #1 on: December 15, 2011, 07:16:45 PM »
sweet, thanks, aj O0

Offline AJ

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2011, 07:19:17 PM »
sweet, thanks, aj O0

RAH52 emailed them to me.

Thanks RAH52  O0
Hope you find our site helpful.

Offline bigbuck

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2011, 07:23:51 PM »
thank you rah52, should be doing this job next week!!! O0

Offline Dino

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #4 on: January 23, 2013, 04:46:40 PM »
Machine: Whirlpool WTW6200SW2

Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302

This Replacement Bearing Procedure for Whirlpool Cabrio Top Load Washers should fix the issue of your washer skipping the wash cycle. This problem is the inner drum will not lift up (1 inch) after filling with water and the machine thinks that it is over loaded and skips the wash cycle and goes to spin and then finally over loads.  I replaced my shaft and bearing due to a noisy bearing and during the testing, i noticed that the wash cycle would get skipped over and go to rinse/spin and then over load. I had to take the inner drum out and coat the shaft and bushing with grease. Then check that the inner tube would lift up by hand. Lift the top cover up slightly with the lid taped close to see the cycle during operation.  Take not of the position of the inner drum before it gets filled with water and after. It should lift which then dis-engages the inner drum from the shaft and only the agitator is moving back and forth. This was a pain in the ass with the limited information I could find online but I got it fixed and you can too.

The bearing kit replacement post is very helpful but I would like to add some suggestions for people doing this job.

1. Take photos of your dis-assembly as you may want to refer back to how the bearing seal was pressed in or the position of the bearings etc...

2. When removing the inner drum, you may find it very difficult to lift out. Once you remove the hub and spline gear, you will see what looks like a spanner nut holding the inner drum to the shaft. (grey plastic nut)  This is not a nut and does not require removal. Just leave it alone. It is part of the inner drum assembly and serves as the upper bushing for the shaft. The inner drum should just pull straight up once you remove the hub and spline gear. If it does not, you may need a second person to help or turn the machine on its side and use your feet against the machine and pull as hard as you can as I had to. It will come off.

3. When you are ready to re-install the bearings, use the bearing tool or use a long threaded rod with washers and nuts to press the bearings into place. Two people will be required to ensure the bearings are going in straight. You can tap them straight at the start with a plastic hammer and continue tapping and pressing with the threaded rod and washer/nut assembly until they are seated.

4. Make sure not to press the bearings too far in, otherwise you can damage the bearings if the metal tube located between the upper and lower bearing binds against the bearings. Allow the tube to be slightly free between the upper and lower bearings. 1/8 or 1/16 inch play.

5. Make sure the bearing rubber seal is fitted all the way into place using the grease and glue as described with the kit. Take a photo of the original before you remove it. It will help you.

6. This is a very important step or you could get (over load) errors. Cover the new shaft with grease once installed (smooth part) and then slide the inner drum over it. This will allow the inner drum to rise freely when the machine fills with water. The inner drum rises about an inch and dis-engages the inner drum from the motor drive allowing only the agitator to operate during the wash cycle.
If you find that the machine is skipping the wash cycle, this is the reason why. You will also get OL errors. The machine thinks that it is over loaded because it the inner drum cannot rise.

Oh, if you find that their is water sloshing around in the inner drum when you remove it, leave it alone. It is supposed to be there as part of the counter balance system. It is filled from factory and remains in the bottom of the counter balance assembly. Some people have been posting comments about drilling holes into it to drain the water. Do not do that.

I had to do a lot of research to get this problem fully resolved.

This should help some people out.

« Last Edit: January 23, 2013, 05:00:03 PM by Dino »

Offline Wedgeman55

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2013, 01:20:04 AM »
I have now done 3 of these jobs.   Once you do a couple,  they are pretty easy.  The one step dino was telling you to do,  coat the shaft with grease,  I disagree.    Once the new shaft is installed and clean up the inner drum that goes onto the shaft,  you shouldn't have to put grease on it.    Don't forget that the grease you would be putting on is in the water that is in possible contact with the clothes.    It is unnecessary once you have a smooth,  new shaft.   I have not had one problem with the 3 I have done thus far.     
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Offline ScottyMo1

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2013, 06:34:41 AM »
I have done about a dozen of these, and I agree with Wedgemann. Don't grease the shaft. Just like anything new that we work on, they do get easier the more of them you do. To me the most important step is 29, figure 17. If you don't grease both cavities on the seal it will squeak like crazy and you will have to start all over again, and that is no fun once the seal is glued in....

Offline Dino

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2013, 04:55:56 PM »
I agree with you both that the drive shaft should not be greased but I had to do something to get it to move freely and it did help in my case. I also want to mention that the shaft and bearings were new replacement parts. Maybe the tolerance or bushing was not in the greatest condition??
 
I applied a very light smear just to help it move, not enough to contaminate my clothing and in any case the shaft is all covered up and hidden beneath the agitator base.   

If you view the amount of posts on other sites about this machine having over-load faults and skipping the wash cycle - it's all due to the inner tube sticking to the shaft. I had a hell of a time trying to separate the inner drum from the shaft. I saw videos of guys just simply lifting the inner tube up with easy once the hub and spline gear were removed. Not a chance in my case and so many other peoples cases.

You guys appear to be appliance repair tech's so I have to ask you - did you ever have difficulty removing the drum?


Not to get off topic. But I need some advise on a new choice of washer and dryer for my new home this September. What do you guys recommend as reliable matching pair of washer/gas dryer (non stack-able). I do not wish to have a unit that has lots of bells & whistles. I think keeping the controls to a minimum is best but I will leave it up to you guys to kindly give me your opinion.
 
Thanks



« Last Edit: January 25, 2013, 05:03:40 PM by Dino »

Offline mercedesman1981

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2013, 06:22:46 PM »
Thanks for posting so much useful information. I was able to repair my bearing issue with the instructions from this forum. My bearing started making noise about a year out of the extended warranty. Water had penetrated the seal just enough to corrode the upper bearing. The lower bearing was fine.

I bought the bearing press tool for this job. After using it I found it to be helpful. In Dino's notes, I didn't need a second person to help make sure the bearing was going in straight. The bearing tool will set the depth of the lower bearing but not the upper bearing. See comment below.

The bigger problem was not over seating the bearings against the stainless steel sleeve. I really too my time while drawing up the bearings. I stopped well before they touched the sleeve, about a 1/4" gap, then took it up a thread or so at a time, disassembling the tool to measure my progress with each turn of the wrench. I got down to quarter turns then eighth turns and stopped while there was still a little play for the sleeve on the shaft. I have about 1mm clearance.

When tightening the bottom nut at step 24 in the instructions, I found it is possible to over tighten the nut causing it to bind on the lower bearing. I backed off a quarter turn and could tell the difference so I removed the nut and added my own locktite and started over. I drew the nut up just until it was touching the bearing but not binding and left it at that.

I like to clean while I work, one of the things we have noticed about this washer are the foul odors it sometimes emits. So I cleaned everything I came in contact with, the lint filters especially. I found two quarters in the sump, they did not contribute to the noisy bearing issue as some have suggested, but after 7 years, the lint filter was a bit messy. I hope that will help cut down the odors, that and leaving the lid up when not in use.

Greasing the seal was a little confusing, but eventually figured out where the two cavities were in the instructions, just basically fill the inside of the seal with grease but don't over due it.

I sealed the bearing seal on bot the outer seal where it meets the tub and the inner part of the seal where it mates with the drive shaft.  I don't know if that will help but thought it worth a try.

I kept my old bearings and seal on the outside chance I still own this washer if the bearings should fail again. I intend to find a local supplier for the bearings and seal if possible.

Offline AJ

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2013, 07:29:47 PM »
Glad you found our site helpful. Thanks for posting.  O0


 :thanks:
Hope you find our site helpful.

Offline AJ

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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video
« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2014, 07:00:13 PM »
and the video...





Bearing Kit Part #  W10435302






Tool Part # W10447783


Hope you find our site helpful.

Offline afterblast

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I do a lot of these.. one thing not specifically mentioned above... open the kit and make sure all the parts are in it before you start pulling the washer apart..

I ordered 2 of these kits at once for separate jobs last week, was doing the return to install on the first one Monday, had it torn apart, opened the kit and found that it was missing a new seal  :tickedoff: ....   figured I'd take one out of the other kit and then express another seal....   opened the second kit on the truck, and found it had 2 seals packed in it  :D  .... someone in the packing department at whirlpool was having a bad day  ;D.... I lucked out.. but if your missing the seal and don't have a spare you may be out a washer untill you can get a new one in... or any of the parts for that matter... 

Offline steverw

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I found this thread very helpful.  I was able to change out the bearings.  I thought I would offer some additional warnings: 1) when you get to the point of removing the stator, be aware that it is heavy and may fall off when you loosen the last screw; mine fell only a few inches, but it was enough to break off some plastic tabs on a couple of the stator windings. 2) be careful putting the stator back on: in my case one of the screws wasn't quite lined up right and started to strip the thread, it seems the material is quite soft 3) I found I had to lay the washer on it's side to be able to get the stator to sit properly while putting in the mounting screws, it was not lining up right when the shaft was at an angle 4) maybe it's obvious, but make sure the wiring to the stator is well clear of the space the rotor will sweep through, 5) I was not able to lift the inner tub out, I had to first take off the motor and pull out the tub with the shaft still in it. which I then hammered out.

Now that it's done, the bearing sound is gone, but it seems to me that there is more shaking when the tub is spinning at high speed.  By "shaking" I mean
violent shaking, you might call it hammering.  Maybe I need new suspension rods, but they looked OK.  I'm wondering if my tub is out of balance now and if there is anything I can do about it.  It's not so much that I mind the vibration, but the violent shaking can't be good for the new bearings.  Any advice?

Thank you to the previous posters, your comments really helped.  :thanks:

-steverw

Offline Maintech

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I carry 3 bungie cords in my house bag, I use one to hold the lid closed when lifting the top of a washer. In most houses I find that I can use one of the other two to hold the top up by hanging off a shelf or pipe. Also I do not normally pull the recirc hose just pop the cover up and bungie to the top.

 

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