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Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302 Instructions and Video

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AJ:
Replacement Bearing Procedure for Whirlpool Cabrio Top Load Washers


Bearing Kit Part #  W10435302





Tool Part # W10447783













bigbuck:
sweet, thanks, aj O0

AJ:

--- Quote from: bigbuck on December 15, 2011, 07:16:45 PM ---sweet, thanks, aj O0

--- End quote ---

RAH52 emailed them to me.

Thanks RAH52  O0

bigbuck:
thank you rah52, should be doing this job next week!!! O0

Dino:
Machine: Whirlpool WTW6200SW2

Whirlpool Cabrio Bearing Replacement Kit W10435302

This Replacement Bearing Procedure for Whirlpool Cabrio Top Load Washers should fix the issue of your washer skipping the wash cycle. This problem is the inner drum will not lift up (1 inch) after filling with water and the machine thinks that it is over loaded and skips the wash cycle and goes to spin and then finally over loads.  I replaced my shaft and bearing due to a noisy bearing and during the testing, i noticed that the wash cycle would get skipped over and go to rinse/spin and then over load. I had to take the inner drum out and coat the shaft and bushing with grease. Then check that the inner tube would lift up by hand. Lift the top cover up slightly with the lid taped close to see the cycle during operation.  Take not of the position of the inner drum before it gets filled with water and after. It should lift which then dis-engages the inner drum from the shaft and only the agitator is moving back and forth. This was a pain in the ass with the limited information I could find online but I got it fixed and you can too.

The bearing kit replacement post is very helpful but I would like to add some suggestions for people doing this job.

1. Take photos of your dis-assembly as you may want to refer back to how the bearing seal was pressed in or the position of the bearings etc...

2. When removing the inner drum, you may find it very difficult to lift out. Once you remove the hub and spline gear, you will see what looks like a spanner nut holding the inner drum to the shaft. (grey plastic nut)  This is not a nut and does not require removal. Just leave it alone. It is part of the inner drum assembly and serves as the upper bushing for the shaft. The inner drum should just pull straight up once you remove the hub and spline gear. If it does not, you may need a second person to help or turn the machine on its side and use your feet against the machine and pull as hard as you can as I had to. It will come off.

3. When you are ready to re-install the bearings, use the bearing tool or use a long threaded rod with washers and nuts to press the bearings into place. Two people will be required to ensure the bearings are going in straight. You can tap them straight at the start with a plastic hammer and continue tapping and pressing with the threaded rod and washer/nut assembly until they are seated.

4. Make sure not to press the bearings too far in, otherwise you can damage the bearings if the metal tube located between the upper and lower bearing binds against the bearings. Allow the tube to be slightly free between the upper and lower bearings. 1/8 or 1/16 inch play.

5. Make sure the bearing rubber seal is fitted all the way into place using the grease and glue as described with the kit. Take a photo of the original before you remove it. It will help you.

6. This is a very important step or you could get (over load) errors. Cover the new shaft with grease once installed (smooth part) and then slide the inner drum over it. This will allow the inner drum to rise freely when the machine fills with water. The inner drum rises about an inch and dis-engages the inner drum from the motor drive allowing only the agitator to operate during the wash cycle.
If you find that the machine is skipping the wash cycle, this is the reason why. You will also get OL errors. The machine thinks that it is over loaded because it the inner drum cannot rise.

Oh, if you find that their is water sloshing around in the inner drum when you remove it, leave it alone. It is supposed to be there as part of the counter balance system. It is filled from factory and remains in the bottom of the counter balance assembly. Some people have been posting comments about drilling holes into it to drain the water. Do not do that.

I had to do a lot of research to get this problem fully resolved.

This should help some people out.

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