20year old whirlpoo side by side ksrs27qxwh00

[luck]

this frige wasent cooling coil was frosted i found a a bad def thermostat and a slow evap fan changed both now the frige gets to cold freezes vegetables bottom of milk getting icy so i installed a temp thermostat gc-1002 original is nla its still getting to cold on frige side small damper door on bottom left in freezer has been in both open and closed positions i suspect the new fan is moving a lot more air to the frige section a lot faster
i also used a 60 degre limit on this frige for the replacement
def thermostat     any thoughts appreciated


Model ksrs27qxwh00
 

[JWWebster]

After replacing the  stuff did you set the ice box at what you call initial recommended settings?

[luck]

yes the thermostat is at the lowest setting for the frige side and the damper  has been in a few different places to see if it made a difference im thinking i might need to restrict air flow somewhere maybe duct the supply air vent and put some small holes in the tape when i go back im going to take the vents apart and look over everything good

[JWWebster]

Set your thermostat midway and your air damper midway and give it 24 hours.

[luck]

does anyone know the specs for that thermostat cut in cut out
 ect i think i made a mistake mounting this on the right side away for the the supply air damper my guess is by the time the
 cold air gets over there its to late

[JWWebster]

That control thermostat uses ambient air it won't matter wher you have it as long as you ain't got it mounted directly to the evaporator.

[luck]

i know that senses ambeint i was wondering about the original
    if i know the specs for that i might to be able to match a
 replacement better  why dont you think if i got this one closer to the supply air id have a better chance of controlling temp ?
 

[JWWebster]

Naw, the closer to the air the quicker it would shut down and as a result the fresh food section may suffer. Get is as far away from the air as you can.

[JWWebster]

The aggrevating thing about these internet parts suppliers is most of the time they use their own part number instead of OEM.
Sears goes by OEM part numbers. Look up the original part number and then cross reference it to a generic supplier like Gemline is what I would do. Their book tells the part number they list for replacement and gives the cut in and cut out. Look on the original part and post the FSP number and I will look in the book, maybe we can see what cut in and cut out is.