GE Top Load Washer Problem

[seattlematt]

I just inherited a relatively new GE washer I believe the model is or is similar to WJRE5500G1WW.  The problem started with banging on the bottom of the washer.  After some research on this forum I found that I have the "sagging apron" problem which I fixed using my own methods thanks to this thread: http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=7389.0

The problem now is that I still feel that the washer is moving too much during the wash cycle.  The inner basket moves with the agitator during the wash cycle causing the tub to move quite a bit.  So here's my basic question:

Should the inside basket move with the agitator during the wash cycle or should it stay free or stationary?

Thanks!

[JWWebster]

This video was taken right before the washer ended the wash cycle. If you look real close you will notice when the basket disengages.
I made this movie with my cheap camera I got from Rite-Aide

[JWWebster]

I replaced a belt on this washer. It is not easy. The washer has 4 lateral straps called bungies and four support rods.

Replacing them things are not very hard to do.

[JWWebster]

Here is the whole pictorial:

http://appliancejunk.blogspot.com/2011/08/ge-hydrowave-belt-replacement.html

[seattlematt]

Here is the whole pictorial:

http://appliancejunk.blogspot.com/2011/08/ge-hydrowave-belt-replacement.html

Thanks! That's helped a great deal already. Here is a video of what mine does.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i132/slow_boy_photos/IMG_1650.mp4

[dentdaddy]

You likely need a mode shifter. Look under the aluminum plate on top of the motor from the right side, you will see a green LED flashing. It will be flashing an error code. Reference your tech sheet to find out which code is flashing. Tech sheet is located behind the backsplash on the control panel.

[tgoods]

Yep, need to replace the mode shifter.  The earlier washers of this design had a software flaw.  If you leave the lid open during the wash cycle, it may send continuous voltage to the mode shifter.  The mode shifter is only made for intermittent duty, continuous voltage burns it up.  Make sure you leave the lid down during wash or replace your (expensive) motor.

[JWWebster]

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816093-works_ge_hydrowave_washer

[seattlematt]

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816093-works_ge_hydrowave_washer

Ordered the mode switch well keep posted.

[seattlematt]

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816093-works_ge_hydrowave_washer

Ordered the mode switch well keep posted.

Well, I got the parts, started tearing the unit down and got stuck on the hub nut.  After wrenching, hammering, torching, drilling, and finally using cutting tools I have concluded that the nut is either part of the basket, or it has fused itself to it.  At this point I am facing cutting the nut piece by piece and then grinding down the remains to get the surfac ready for a new nut.

I'm starting to think this isn't worth the trouble.   

[blondejon]

The nut is left threaded.  Even knowing that with the last one I took a part I had the same problem.  You might be able to get it loose by pouring a little bit of solvent in there.

[seattlematt]

The nut is left threaded.  Even knowing that with the last one I took a part I had the same problem.  You might be able to get it loose by pouring a little bit of solvent in there.

Yeah, I have the nut in pieces now, i don't think the threads are doing anything at this point, it's just pieces stuck to the base. It seems like its been welded to be part of the tub.

[JWWebster]

Seems to me like GE should have thought to install some anti seize compound on that nut

[blondejon]

I ended up scrapping the one I had.  I took a few parts off and sold them though.

[bigbuck]

seems to me thoose mode shifters are going up alot, i had to order 5 just this week due to basket going back in fourth instead of agitator.