Author Topic: DCVH515EF0ww (Read 2133 times)

JWWebster · « **on:** October 12, 2011, 07:13:19 PM »

I have a question. This GE dryer is dead. The lid switch is ok. The limit switch is fine. The only thing that does not have continuity is the inlet thermister. The tech sheet says it ought to read 80 ohms at room temp, it reads nada. Would this cause the dryer to be dead?

Model DCVH515EF0ww

JWWebster · « **Reply #1 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:16:48 PM »

My buddy Jones brought over a new fangled GE dryer. The only thing I could find so far is an open inlet thermister.

JWWebster · « **Reply #2 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:22:06 PM »

The original complaint was worn out glides. They were replaced. To get inside the machine you remove the trim then the top then the control panel then the front lifts off after backing out the screws at the base and removing the 2 at the top. From there on it is just another GE dryer.

JWWebster · « **Reply #3 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:23:11 PM »

More from the swamp:

JWWebster · « **Reply #4 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:25:32 PM »

The glide bearing is replaced by removing 2 screws on the front below the filter and removing the base of the bearing then the top comes right out. Click on pix to enlarge:

JWWebster · « **Reply #5 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:30:49 PM »

The dryer is operated by fancy electronics and has an exhaust thermister to determine drum temp as well as a broken belt switch. Tip to reinstall the belt you need to raise the drum up enough to get your arms in there to reconnect the idler. If the fancy electronic control is attached to the top it must be removed to do this.

JWWebster · « **Reply #6 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:33:35 PM »

I posted the photos for those of you who were wondering how to get into the machine. Like I said the only thang we found wrong was an open inlet thermister. Looks more like a limit than a thermister. Jones ordered one. Will let yall know the results but until then does anybody know? Note: (I am not about to jump out them 2 wires without knowing. Last time I tried that, I burnt a GE wiring harness all to hell and back.)
Thanking yall in advance. Dubya J

GE Inlet Control Thermister Part # WE4M398

whirlpooltech · « **Reply #7 on:** October 12, 2011, 07:55:24 PM »

Awesome, I love post like this.

rego · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2011, 06:01:30 AM »

Not positive about the thermister but if it's anything like the duet it's a good bet that it could. Duet with bad thermister will run for a minute then shut down and throw a code...I would think GE would have the same type of operation...but thinking always get's me in trouble...thanks for the pics!

Taprobag · « **Reply #9 on:** October 18, 2011, 07:47:17 PM »

if your not getting the correct ohm reading at room temp the thermistor is bad and the dryer will not work you could jump the motor from the control board and if the motor dose not run then you know that there is a problem within that circut most likely the thermistor

JWWebster · « **Reply #10 on:** October 18, 2011, 08:04:59 PM »

The part is on order. I will let Yall know the results as soon as I know something.

JWWebster · « **Reply #11 on:** October 18, 2011, 08:20:51 PM »

I have a few raw photos left I will post em:

JWWebster · « **Reply #12 on:** October 18, 2011, 08:21:51 PM »

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Author Topic: DCVH515EF0ww (Read 2133 times)