Maytag Neptune dryer has no heat

[Walker231T]

My Neptune dryer, model MDE3000AYA, isn't heating the air.  The dryer runs fine just no heat. Let me tell you this up front when I went to clean the lint filter it didn't look like it had been clean in 2 or 3 dryings. There was a rather THICK layer of lint on the filter. I've been digging around all over the internet today and ran ac cross your site and thought I would ask for some help.  Is it more than likely the element in toast due to the filter not being cleaned or could it be just the sensor switch.  I have the front cover off and have located the heating element and tube.  The elements look good.  Is there anyway to test the switch on the tube to see if that's the only problem?? OHM test?  Thanks for any help!!

[RegUS_PatOff]

the heating element should be about 10 OHMS

it could also be an open thermal device, there may be 2 or 3 of them..

If the drum still turns, it looks like it could be the Hi-Limit Thermostat, Part # 303396
# 8 in diagram below


Wiring Diagram below:

[Walker231T]

THANKS for the help!!!  I just took the Hi-Limit Thermostat out of the picture, hooked the purple wire directly up to the element and did away with the #10 wire in the diagram and ran the dryer to see if the element would produce any heat.  It never produced any.  Did I do that right??  I tested the heating element and it had 10.4 OHMS.  I also tested the Hi-Limit Thero and got 00.1 OHMS.  What should that be??

[RegUS_PatOff]

those reading are OK, next step is to do some voltage measurements...

[Walker231T]

Which parts or wires do I need to test??  Am I going to have to further tear the machine down??  Right now I only have the front door and front cover off.

Thanks again!!

[JWWebster]

this dude here will cause the dryer not to heat. You must locate it.
Hint : it will be near the blower outlet or heater duct, part # 307473

[RegUS_PatOff]

this dude here will cause the dryer not to heat. You must locate it. Hint : it will be near the blower outlet or heater duct.

but then his drum/motor wouldn't be turning...

[JWWebster]

I was thinking number 11 above just killed the heater. I wish I could be right there looking at that thing.  My fluke would tell me whats wrong with that dryer in about 30 seconds. All those things mounted on or around that heater INCLUDING the heater MUST have continuity. Find the open part and there will be the problem.

[RegUS_PatOff]

not according to the schematic link I posted at the bottom of the parts diagram in my earlier message...

[JWWebster]

OK their are 2 of these fuses in line in the schematic . One we know is on the heater. The other is near it but mounted on the blower housing? The centrifugal switch does go into the motor and back out. But the heater does not run the motor. The heater is on a separate circuit, The motor is 120 vac. While the wire from the fuse does go to the motor it does not run the motor. locate the fuse that is blown. Their are 2 of these.

[RegUS_PatOff]

on the wiring diagram, the 2 fuses (one on the heater) shown above the motor, control the motor.

the heater circuit goes through the centrifugal switch, and the thermostats on the right side of the schematic.

[JWWebster]

Looks like both fuses are in series with each other but mounted at different locations. Neither of which have anything to do with powering the motor. The wire GY goes into cent switch but the power for the motor is not controlled by these fuses. The heater and the motor are not on the same circuit. The heater is a 5000 watt 240 volt heater. The motor runs on 120 volts The heater cuitcuit does not run the motor. However if the motor is not running the heater will not come on because the cent  switch sometimes burns up but NEVER on this model Amana yes not this dude.

[Repair-man]

How do we know you actually have 240 volts at the back of the dryer where the cord connects? You have to use a voltmeter. There may be nothing wrong with the dryer mechanically. Many is the time I have found a breaker half-tripped, allowing the motor to run, but no heat. Same goes for a burned power cord terminal.

[RegUS_PatOff]

L1 (for the motor) goes through the timer, to both fuses, (GY) to the motor overload protector, and then to the motor start and/or run windings, then through it's own part of the centrifugal switch, then to the door switch (on the left) to Neutral.

L1 (for the heater) goes through the right hand side of the timer BU, through the Infinite Temp Switch, Cycling T'stat, Hi-Limit T'stat, through the heater, through a separate part of the centrifugal switch, to L2.

[Walker231T]

How do we know you actually have 240 volts at the back of the dryer where the cord connects? You have to use a voltmeter. There may be nothing wrong with the dryer mechanically. Many is the time I have found a breaker half-tripped, allowing the motor to run, but no heat. Same goes for a burned power cord terminal.

You're correct.  I checked the breaker first it wasn't tripped but I cycled it anyway.  I've check the voltage at the plug in the wall and then checked the voltage at the back of the dryer where it connects and both have 240.