lg dryer wont tumble

[fcat57]

Help! Have read most items re: dryers. Stopped working after use with no indication. Went to load again and just wouldn't spin. Control panel lights work, blower isn't clogged, lint trap clog free. No discernible noises except for one small click and slight burning smell. Replaced control board and still won't work. The solenoid type part in control board gets very warm. Tried old control board and new one for diagnostic tests and got same error codes; U01, 19:H0, 237, 24. It would then power off, not allowing me to complete diagnostics. Any advice or hints would be appreciated!

Model dlg2525

[krazytech]

that sounds like a motor switch problem... try this with the power on.. open the door press the door switch spin the drum clockwise and press start button...try it a few times to see if it starts... let us know

[fcat57]

Thanks for responding! I did try the "manual start" with no success. I now hear a small click when pressing start. The error code h1901 is also very similar to the solenoid? type part on the PCB. I'm curious about a small part at rear of motor that I think is the drum switch. It looks as if the metal tab activates something. It is in the down position ie; not pressing on the black switch its attached to. I also read of a reset switch for the gas thermostat? I read it here but can't remember the name. Right lower front with brown and red wires. The button is down and can be pushed but won't click or 'catch'  thanks again.

[krazytech]

that switch is for the idler pulley ... if the belt comes off the switch will kill the motor. check that switch with an meter... but with the small movement of the drum I would also check the motor switch test

[fcat57]

The drum moves easily but will not power on. Turning the blower wheel also moves the drum. I'm so fed up with this dryer but I really hate to call in expensive repairmen, plus coordinating someone to be home. Do the error codes mean anything to you as I can't find them on LG site or other sites. We do have a very long exhaust but my husband does clean it from our roof fairly frequently. The heating pipe is free of any obstruction also. Wouldn't it be easier if these parts were color coded when they go out so it'd be quicker to figure this out. I havent removed drum or belts because that just kinda scares me! My local laudromat is interesting but kinda scary as its an outdoor one.    and I'm using my garage door framing to hold my clothes line so I'm adapting but would like soft towels again!

[wildimaginations]

There are very few error codes for LG dryers.  The only error codes I see is for the thermistors.

The problem you're having sounds like a bad motor.  Look at the rotor part of the motor and see if you can see 2 springs.  One on each side.  I attached some pictures for you to look at.  The springs are located on the pulley side where the belt goes on.  If one of the springs is missing, you need to change the motor.

Hope this helps.

[fcat57]

Thank you! i'm going to look right now. I'm not pulling out the drum so i think this should still be visible from my vent hole i'm using to look in the back. all directions to move the blower or back panel include removing the drum. i will take a photo while i'm in there and post it. the reset switch by the thermostat, do you know anything of that? should i be able to hear a "click" while pushing it, or is it more of a "pressure" switch? i'll be back in a few....

[fcat57]

ok we might be making progress!!!! i took about 50 photos but i did find the two springs. One is intact and one is gone!!!!  my phone is charging so i can upload them, (don't know if i can share from my phone?). Now this is the crazy person in me, but would the motor from the companion washer work? Ridiculous, I know. Hopeful!!!

[john63]

On the BURNER HOUSING---there's a *resettable* THERMAL LIMITER.

If looking at the BURNER HOUSING from the front of the dryer---it'll be located at the 8 Oclock position.

Press the button on the THERMAL LIMITER (looks like a thermostat).

Test dryer.

[fcat57]

Here are the two photos. Reset switch..... trying to figure if it should stay in a reset position? or is it just pressed then test. the switch moves but doesn't reset like a gfci switch would...

[JWWebster]

That is the cent switch. That centrifugal switch sends power to the heater circuit only after the motor is going wide open.


If the dryer vent is blocked a resettable safety is placed there. The bi-metal inside trips if the temp exceeds 300f or thereabouts.

[wildimaginations]

You have a bad motor.  Change the motor.  The part number is 4681EL1008A.

[JWWebster]

Wild, just wondering does that dryer have a resetable thermal limit on it? Thanks in advance

[wildimaginations]

Yes it does but it is in series with the ignitor and burner valve.  The resettable version is only on the gas dryer and not on the electric version.  Both high limit switches are in series with the heating part of the dryer and has no affects of the motor operation.

What this person has is a broken spring on the centrifugal switch inside the rotor.  The centrifugal switch won't seat back down to the start position and that's why the motor smells like it's burning because it's trying to start in the run position.  It's a different setup from the standard Whirlpool dryers.

[JWWebster]

I have came across a sticky or hung cent switch before. What I did was clean up the motor and then I added a little zoom oil to the sliding part and worked it by hand til it got loose. Of course if the springs are gone and the switch has disintegrated (I have come across that also) nothing can be done but if they are still there you can work the cent switch free and maybe get a few more miles out of it