Sears-Kenmore gas dryer w/n heat

[Rptrick]

I have checked other posts thought I would give you a try.  Dryer will turn on but will not heat. Igniter does not glow.  Thermal switch has good continuity.

Model 110.76732500

[jumptrout51]

Use a volt meter to check for power at the ignitir terminals. If you have power replace the ignitor.
No power,check continuity on the high limit thermostat.

[JWWebster]

Are you getting 120 volts ac to the gas assembly quick connect? If you are then remove the ignitor quick connect and check it for continuity. If it checks good then check the flame sensor. If it is open then the ignitor won't get the power. All the components of the gas assembly are powered up the coils, the ignitor and the flame sensor. The ignitor does 2 functions. It fires off the ga and keeps the holding coil open as long as it is heated. In other words is is a thermocouple and an ignitor. When power is removed from the ignitor by the flame sensor then a surge of power goes through them coils and theyopen the gas gates. out comes the raw gas and hits the screamin hot ignitor. kwhoosh we has flames. It takes no time to raise the temp inside drum depending on how wet them clothes is. Once the drum air temp gets to 160 the kilixon mounted on the blower housing next to that pesky duct fuse which always wants to melt and kill the power to the gas assembly when the lint blocks the air flows and temps inside the blower exceed 350f. The control klixon contunually kicks the power on and off all throughout the drying process.

[Rptrick]

And where might I find these igniter terminals and the high limit thermostat?

[JWWebster]

Gas coil swapout

OK Once yall get the front off go ahead and remove the drum. Then you can check the gas assembly components. Let me ask you this: Did you check the duct fuse or do you assume it is good because the dryer runs? On gas dryers the duct fuse kills power to the gas assembly only. Check this out:
  Gas dryer fixed: a Foggy blog

[Rptrick]

I checked the continuity on the duct fuse before I took everything apart to access the igniter.  I have 120 vts at the ignitor and the gas assembly QD.  I have continuity at the flame sensor.  However, I did take the igniter out to see if it had a crack in it as depicted in your picture.  Sure-enough, it looked like the picture.  I will relpace it on the 'morrow and let you know how things turn out.  Is there anything else I should check while this is in pieces?  I have already given it a thourough cleaning. 

[jumptrout51]

If you have 120v at the igniter and it does not glow it is bad. Replace it.

[JWWebster]

Don't touch the new part on the ignitor portion. Skins oils kill the carborundum filament. Don't drop it or bang it or you wil be buying another.