Although my LG WM2277HW
washer is working (at the moment anyway), I thought I would post the result of my effort for other laymen and pose a couple of questions.
First off, thanks to all who've posted on this site previously regarding the "LE" error on LG front loading washers, especially TechnicianBrian in June of '09 - this post was a huge help.
After getting an LE (first time in 4 years with the washer), I unplugged it for an hour, plugged it back in, and it would not clear. Did the same overnight, no luck.
I found three slightly different service manuals on-line, and with each, the last three pages had the exploded view with diagram numbers, but the manual did not contain a page which had the diagram number, a description, and a part number.
If anyone knows where I can get this page, please let me know.
5. Tested at the main PWB with a multi-tester.
The Hall Sensor connector on my board was not white, as noted in TechnicianBrian's post. It was red, but had the white, blue, red and gray wires.
Note: The service manual had a diagram in the "spin trouble" troubleshooting section that shows where this connector is on the PWB.
White to Gray = 11.5 vdc - good.
Blue to Gray = 10.5 vdc, then when rotating it jumped around quite a bit ... to 0, up to 5, occasionally back to 10.5.
Red to Gray = the same as blue to gray. Jumped around allot, back to 0 for much of the time.
Does this make sense?
From TechnicianBrian's post, I expected it to jump from 10.5 to 5.x, then back to 10.5, or something more consistent.
6. Tested ohms at the motor connector. My connector was not red, but was pink. Again, the diagram in the service manual indicated where this connector was located. All measured around 8-8.5.
7. Then, took the washer through the QC test mode cycle listed in the service manual. (Should have done this first!) It went through all cycles fine.
8. Put the PWB cover back on, the top and back cover cover and all works well now.
Just not sure why.
So, really didn't change anything. It concerns me that in testing, I disturbed wiring and connectors, and now it is all working without finding any part that had failed. At least I didn't spend $$ on a service call or had someone change out parts that may not have needed changing - at this point anyway.
Thoughts from anyone?