Kenmore 90 Series won't drain/spin and is not Lid Switch

[gleg]

Hi,

 I have a Kenmore 90 series, model 101.28912790 with a similar problem, it works up until it should drain and stops, no sounds if I move if forward, it will only work in the agitate mode.

 I was able to drain it by over riding the lid switch but it didn't spin. ( I had it emptied when I was trying to spin it if this affects it)

 Any ideas?

Thanks,
Gary

Model 110.28912790

[JWWebster]

Did you look in the pump for objects? The coupler ok?

[AJ]

Hi,

Think your model number is 110.28912790 and not 101.28912790.

After the washer drains the water there is a pause in the timer that stops the motor from running and lets the transmission shift into spin.

By jumping out the lid switch and advancing the timer to the spin cycle you may have been missing the pause the timer would need to stop at for the washer to go into spin.

Try leaving the lid switch jumped out and let it run though a cycle from start to finish on it's own and see how it works.

I would guess all you need is a new lid switch.

I looked up model 110.28912790 and the part number for the lid switch is part # 3949238

WHIRLPOOL 3949238 Lid Switch Assembly, AP3100001

[gleg]

Thanks Guys for the info,

 I don't really know how to check the pump or coupler at this point.

 And yes Admin, it is 110  thanks.

To over ride the lid switch I was standing there pushing a pencil inside the opening,
 Is there an easier way for testing cycles?
 I understand that this is a safety feature and I take full responsibility for defeating it.

 Thanks,
 Gary

[AJ]

Lets start over, guess I did not understand your first post.

Thought you had by passed the lid switch. Did not know you were simply pushing the lid switch on with a pencil.

If you can hear the motor running during the spin cycle, but the washer does not spin then you need to check the motor coupler.

This video will show you how to check the coupler, part # 285753A

[gleg]

Hi AJ,

 Well I found a pencil that fit and held so I ran a load and everything worked great so I assume at this point it's the lid switch.  I will definitely use your link there.  Do you happen to have a video or instructions on how to replace it?  I know my way around hand tools just knowing how to get in this would help.

 
While we are batting a 1000, I just rented this house and I notice the matching dryer
110.66912  is stuck on super hot and doesn't shut off, would you know what is causing this?

Thanks,
Gary

[AJ]

Washer Lid Switch Part # 3949238

[gleg]

Hi AJ,

 By sticking a pencil in and the machine working does that mean the switch makes contact internally it's just has a broken lever or something.  I was wondering if possibly the long white pointer that protrudes from the lid could be broken.  It's there, just wanted to make sure I was ordering the right part.

I'll post on the dryer also.

Gary

[AJ]

I was wondering if possibly the long white pointer that protrudes from the lid could be broken.  It's there, just wanted to make sure I was ordering the right part.

If it's there then it should be fine. Once in a great while I find one missing.

What I often find with this style lid switch is the body of the switch cracks were the two screws go that hold it on the washer. Then the switch drops down a little bit and that 'white pointer' thing that protrudes from the lid is unable to reach it to turn it on.

[JWWebster]

That pointer is called a lid strike, part # 358684

[gleg]

Hi,

 Just now taking the washer apart to look at the switch.  Yea it was busted.  It looks like the last person put a different switch in there and cut the wires instead of using the snap on molex connector, which looks like I'll have to cut the end off the new one since the other end of the molex connector is gone now.  Is there any type of polarity I need to look out for.

I know how to use a volt/ohm meter if i need to.

Thanks,
Gary

[JWWebster]

No polarity.