refrigerator too warm

[cjrose007]

Refigerator will no cool below 41 degrees.  I cleaned the evap coils.  Freezer is ok.  Both fans work.  Door between the freezer and frig works.  Ice builds up on the condenser coil.  I defrosted, and ice reformed the next day.  It builds up on the supply side.  Am I low on coolent?  I have set both settings to 6 but no cooler than 41.  Is it worth getting fixed?

Model FRS6LR5EW3

[JWWebster]

You have too much coolant in there. The low side pressure should be 5PSI.

[whirlpooltech]

Evaporator coils are located in the freezer.
Condenser  coils are located outside near the compressor.

I cleaned the evap coils.

Did you mean that you cleaned the condenser coils?

Ice builds up on the condenser coil.

Did you mean the evaporator coils?

I defrosted, and ice reformed the next day.

Could you post a photo of the coil iced up?

If the evaporator coil is freezing up evenly then it sounds like you may have a defrost problem.

[whirlpooltech]

You have too much coolant in there. The low side pressure should be 5PSI.

Why do you say they have to much coolant in there?

[cjrose007]

I meant to say to little coolant

[cjrose007]

I cleaned the condenser coils and I defrosted the condenser coils.  I had them backwards.  The frost build up is not uniform.  It frosts more on the right/entry side.  I need to have the system run since I just defrosted.  I will post a picture tomorrow.  I moved my temp sensor to the top shelf, and when the system runs, it gets to 38 degrees.

[JWWebster]

I  guess I read the question wrong.
The condenser coils are outside the unit in the location of the compressor.
The coils inside are called evaporator coils. What you mean is you defrosted the evaporator coils. Ice on the evaporation coils is a sign of a bad defrost control, or heater,or heater thermostat. More than likely the heater element or termination thermostat.

[Ronyeager]

If heater is out then doesn't the thermistor need to be changed as well???

[AJ]

If heater is out then doesn't the thermistor need to be changed as well???

Not if it test ok.

I looked up your model number and here are the parts numbers for the defrost system.

Defrost Heater: 242044113
Defrost Thermostat: 5303918214
Defrost Timer/Control: 241508001

I too would like to see a photo of the evaporator before I say it's a defrost problem and not some sealed system problem.

[JWWebster]

If the heater is bad then the terminator even if it is good should be replaced simply because it is a lot of labor involved. All of the components are of the same age. So why replace the heater and take a chance on a back call because a month later the defrost has gone haywire? Well you can make more money if you are a servicer but if you is a consumer you can get aggravated fairly quickly. For the repairman having to continually go back and mend a nagging problem can cause them to lose custs or gain a reputation as a lackey. While you are in there go ahead and replace em both and be done with it. My opinion.

[AJ]

It's not a bad idea to replace both the defrost heater and defrost thermostat at the same time as JW said.

With some model refrigerator the defrost heater and defrost thermostat come together as one part.

[Ronyeager]

I guess while we are at it, we minus well replace the timer also?  Fix the defrost problem all around the board

[JWWebster]

A 6 hour 21 minute timer with a 2143 config is around $5 (GP1) generic timer. I would.

[Ronyeager]

So, just to re-cap.  If we have frost building up heavily on the evap coils and the whole system is sealed well.  Then we should replace the defrost thermostat, the heater and the timer??

[JWWebster]

You have the option to replace just the bad part. You don't have to replace them all.
It depends on your budget.