Author Topic: Dishwasher with LE code. motor replaced, no broken wires, still busted  (Read 3508 times)

Offline lefthook1729

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Hello -

I've had this horrible dishwasher for about 4 years. I replaced the motor once about 14 months ago to take care of an LE code. worked fine until last week. LE code came back, rechecked for broken wires and everything looks clean. replaced motor despite the old one turning freely, nothing.

what would be the next logical part to replace? i've seen maybe the pump motor?, or possibly the whole PCB?

not sure if this helps, but my check valve does not turn easily at all by hand, not sure if it's supposed to spin like the motor?

thanks for your help

Model LDF6810ST

Offline JWWebster

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Did you look under the black goop? Thats where everyone seems to be finding the broken wires
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

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Offline lefthook1729

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what do you mean by "under"? I pulled all the wires away from the goop to make sure none were embedded and cut. they are clear from the top behind the front panel until they disappear under the door.

Offline jumptrout51

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Use a voltmeter to do an ohm check on the wires. They could be separated inside the insulation.
Take a Kid fishing.

Offline lefthook1729

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So, I checked all the wires. Nothing was giving me weird readings. Are there any other parts besides the main motor and a broken wire that could cause the problem? If it's the PCB, I think I'll just dump it for something else. But if it's another easier/cheaper part, I'll give it a shot.

Thank you both for your help so far. I really appreciate it.

Offline JWWebster

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Did you look in the goop inside the door?
Notes from fearless leaders previous LG DW woes:
To disassemble the door start by removing screws behind the panel. All connections to control are color coded. Remove the latch and wires. Lift front panel off. Disconnect wires, remove exhaust fan assembly rotate cover ccw and yank out assembly. Remove the door by removing side plates to get door springs off.Pull down on springs and lift out clips remove ground wire and lift door off.Remove sprayer and plastic tube to top sprayer. Remove all screws on top of motor assembly get screen off keeping gasket in tact for reuse, next take the reverse thread screw off the impeller, get the nut grader out. Tip dishwasher on side and remove 2 base panel screws. Remove the retainer screw and retainers that hold the assembly to the bottom. Disconnect the motor assembly wires. Disconnect the hoses. Remove the ground wire nut (10 mm) Push in tabs where white clips were and lift out the motor assembly. Nothing to it.
all LG dishwashers (2004-2010) use the same SUMP ASSEMBLY.
p/n: AJH31248604
Notes:
Problem: What is the correct part number for the motor/sump assm. Ive seen updated and improved part numbers and I want to make sure I get the best one.
Solution: As of this posting---all LG dishwashers (2004-2010) use the same SUMP ASSEMBLY.
p/n: AJH31248604.
Note: The AJH31248604 Sump Assy replaces all
previous Sump Assemblies.
THESE WERE THE WASH MOTOR FAILURE SUMPS
6871DD1002A
6871DD1002B
********************
THESE WERE UPDATED FOR ENERGY EFFICIENCY
AND/OR REDUCING MANF'G COSTS
AJH31248601
AJH31248602   
AJH31248603

The current replacement, Part # AJH31248604

Reply from consumer: Thanks! Before calling for service (LG LDF6810xx) for the dreaded LE error code we checked the wiring in the door per this thread. Sure enough a black wire completely broken in half and a red one with the insulation off. The black wire was completely embedded in the sound deadening material such that it was hard to even spot it at first.Anyway, simple fix and lots of money saved. Thanks to all.
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline lefthook1729

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I retraced every wire and tested them with the multimeter to make sure there were no internal breaks. Everything checked out. I decided to replace the synchronous motor on a whim. Installed the part last night and now the machine is working. It's still making some odd (not horrible) motor sounds, but I've cleared two full loads with no LE code. Possible success.

except now the door is leaking... I'm sure something is just out of alignment because it's been pulled from the cabinet 100 times. any easy leaky door advice before i tear that sucker off again?

but i'll take the problem with a solution over the LE mystery hunt any day.

thanks for your help gents.

Offline tgoods

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The gasket can get pushed too far into the channel.  Pull the entire length of the gasket out slightly. Then close the door. 

Offline lefthook1729

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it didn't end up being the door gasket. the fan vent in the door got bumped too many times and was letting water in, so the entire inside of the door was wet. Just needed to be repositioned for a proper seal. and now everything works.

i hope (but I know it won't be) the last thing i have to fix on this piece of junk.

 

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