LG FRENCH DOOR FRIDGE AREA NOT COOLING FREEZER WORKS

[matts1123]

Here is the story...

Bought off craigslist, set it up for a week before moving in to house, plugged in and fridge area never got cold (no air flow coming in from freezer). The freezer works great though.

...no ice build up, compressor fan is working, freezer fan is working, compressor is pretty much staying running (had a repairman out that noticed a line coming from the compressor that should be cold was hot as well as the compressor was hot, he didnt know what was wrong with it said could be anything...waste of 60bucks)

I use to be a mechanic so I know my way around a wrench and electrical. I just need some advice as to where to start diagnosing this thing...any help would be greatly appreciated.

Matt

Model LFX23961ST

 

[PARTech]

There is a duct assembly on the back wall of the fridge section, take the screws out of that (3?) and the rest unclips.  There is a damper behind it that could be stuck or broken.  Seems they don't sell the damper separately and you have to buy the whole "Multi Duct" unless one of the others here can find a part number for just the damper.

[JWWebster]

French Door Service manual

[matts1123]

I removed the back duct and the damper is wide open, tried putting 9 volts (thats all I have laying around to test it) and it didnt close...I figure open is ok for now and will deal with it not closing once I actually get some cold air in the fridge area. I pulled off the back sections in the freezer compartment and put 9 volts to both fans down there and they both work. So I turned the fridge on and tested the plugs that go into the fans and they are both getting 14volts. So the fans are working and nothing is obstructing the duct. With the fridge on and the duct off I visually looked down the opening while holding the door buttons closed and could see the fan operating properly.

While I was behind the freezer area I noticed a little bit of frost on the coils but it wasnt completely frosted over.

Any other Ideas?
Webber mentioned that maybe the freon is low.....would that mean there is a leak in the system or could it be recharged and still be fine?

Thanks in advance.

[matts1123]

Webster***

[PARTech]

Absolutely JW could be right, that is the 'fun' of trying to diagnose over the internet.

[niobrara]

You need a full frost line on the evap for the unit to cool, if you dont have that then you have a leak or sealed system issue

[tgoods]

LG's have a 7 year warranty on the sealed system. 
I've been getting some calls for bad appliances from craigslist.  They will usually meet you in a parking lot, get the cash and you never see them again.  I've seen two fridges with sealed system problems and washer with a bad transmission in the last two months. I would never buy anything from craigslist without being able to plug it in and check it out first.

[matts1123]

I agree it was a must for me to have it plugged in and operating for me to buy it from someone on craigslist. However, this one was plugged in and with the freezer working and the fridge at 59degrees it lookeedgood.

There was frost on the evap coils (the ones in the freezer section) however they werent covered solid with ice so im guessing thats normal?

[niobrara]

Ok if your evap is frosted make sure evap fan works and that your damper between your freezer and ref section is opening. Also check ref thermistor.

[matts1123]

All fans are working. I've located the fridge thermistor and am trying to test it but not sure which of the connectors on the board has the fridge thermistor on it. I think it is on connector 6 which has a two white wires (which is what the thermistor has on it) among others in it and they have a label above them R-Snr. IS that is and if so which wires am I measuring resistance between? The two white ones?

[matts1123]

Tested resistance between two white wires for the fridge thermistor and at the current temp of the fridge (about 50degrees) it was reading 14.9 I put the thermistor in ice water for about 3 min and read it again and got 18.3 ..... seems to be functioning but is that out of spec and could be causing my problem. Again, not sure if measuring across the two white wires is the proper method but that is all I could figure out by processes of elimination and seeing the R-Snr label.

Any thoughts?