Whirlpool Dryer Stopped Drying (LER8858EQ2)

[Agrajag]

Here we are again with the same dryer and no heat again.

A quick check shows everything (but the bias) zeros with the exception of the white strip below the high limit thermostat.

I haven't checked the bias/cycling stat yet. Wanted to check in and find out of that white strip below the high limit stat is a thermostat or not. It's the one that hooks into the heating element. It's the one that the heating element wire connects to (part 19). That little white strip won't zero out. However, I also don't see it's part. In a sectional it shows as being there with the heating element wire but in the parts list it just shows as the wire.

[JWWebster]

If any of these limits are open or the element is open then you won't have any heat. To prevent a bad reading remove the wires on each component before making a continuity check.

[Agrajag]

Yeah, I always do. No heat what-so-ever. All thermostats reading as expected though I suspect the bias might be an issue as it's reading the same as it did a year ago and I think it might have been bad then. (green wires connections zero out North/South while purple wire connects read 7 as before)

[RegUS_PatOff]

click on picture

WHIRLPOOL 3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse, AP3132867




How's the Vent ?
Check for good air-flow where the Vent exits the House.

Dryer Vent
Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F at the rear of the Dryer.

[Agrajag]

Aha! If the picture above is of the piece that goes below the bias themostat (though it doesn't match the look of the piece that's on there as the one on there has a screw right in the center of it to hold it onto the blower housing) then that's it as this doesn't zero out.

Vents are all fine.

[Agrajag]

The piece I'm talking about (maybe I need to snap a picture of it) has the heating element ends connected to it.

[Agrajag]

And appears to be part of the heating element itself now that I see that part in the list.

So that suggests it might again be the bias stat. What should I read from this? It has 4 posts that I call North/South and East/West. NS is red wired and EW is purple wired.

When disconnected NS has continuity (goes to zero) and EW lands around 7.

Everything else seems to have continuity. For the plain stats I direct-connected them (for testing only) and that didn't get the element to come on. It'd be great to fix this as I'm between jobs and spending $150 for PSE&G to come out to fix it would hurt right now.

[RegUS_PatOff]

If it has 4 wires, that's the Bias Thermostat.
Only 2 connections will have continuity.

No need to disconnect wires to check for contiuity.

The part in the picture is the Thermal Fuse.
Is it good ?

and How is the Vent system ?

[JWWebster]

The bias stat has two fat load carrying wires( for element) and 2 small non load carrying wires, the 2 small wires are for the bias heater inside the stat. The timer sends down power and heats up the stat to make it shut down faster for knits and perma press cycles. The bias heater won't show continuity brand new.

[Agrajag]

How do I test the fuse? Assuming continuity. Duh... It's a fuse right? hehehe.

The vent is clean as a whistle.

[RegUS_PatOff]

The vent is clean as a whistle.

all the way to where it exits the house ?

[JWWebster]

If that fuse blow then that dryer has no life. The wires on the fuse are not load carrying. They are in series with the door switch. When she blows it is like that hatch is open. Nothing more. Clever ain't it?  

[Agrajag]

all the way to where it exits the house ?

Yep, I snaked it yesterday. It's a pretty short run.

At this point I'm still not sure what the consensus is as to the problem. Doesn't sound like it's the fuse as I have power, just no heat. The stats are all zeroing (showing continuity). Just not sure about the bias one.

[AJ]

The piece I'm talking about (maybe I need to snap a picture of it) has the heating element ends connected to it.

It would be great if you could post a photo of it, thanks.

[RegUS_PatOff]

If it has 4 wires, that's the Bias Thermostat.
Only 2 connections will have continuity.

Have you re-set your house Circuit Breakers ?
It could also be bad/loose connections on the Power Terminal Strip on the back of the Dryer.

It could also be an OPEN Heater Element.
It could be a bad Timer.