Author Topic: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question  (Read 2902 times)

Offline klhglobal

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I keep getting advice to just replace the lid switch, so I bought a brand new lid switch assembly. I did not install it. I used it to see if it would ohm test the same as the old one that has the blown fuse.
Both the check switch and the other switch ohm test exactly the same on the new board as the old. In other words the lid switch does not seem to be shorted !!!

So I returned to my original thinking which is to find out what else down line of the lid switch could short and blow the lid switch fuse and found that the hot water side of the water inlet valve looks like it got hot and melted/distorted the orange plastic inlet solenoid switch covering. And this is wired back to the lid switch fuse.

So I donít think I needed the new lid switch but might need a water inlet valve. BUT now I am wondering what caused the water inlet valve to fry? Is there something else that could have shorted down line of this?????

My original troubleshooting flow through mythology is not to replace the first obvious thing that has a 4 amp fuse attached to it such as the lid switch, but to eliminate everything that it is inter dependant of that same fuse. Especially since the lid switch always ohmed out OK by itself. But it appears the water inlet valve and the lid switch share the same fuse.

Model LAT9235AAE

Offline JWWebster

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2011, 05:48:17 PM »
That water valve solenoid probably died of natural causes.
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Offline whirlpooltech

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2011, 09:49:08 PM »
 :popcorn:

Offline klhglobal

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2011, 09:57:53 PM »
I am a veteran business owner with experience in trouble shooting extremely complicated marine electronic and hydraulic systems over various voltages AC/DC.

BUT I have little experience in appliance repair.
But I understand methodology of trouble shooting electric issues.

The responses I receive from this blog are no better than what I could receive for the time invested to just pay an appliance repairman to fix it and get to the damn point.

You all brag of youíre many years experience but none of you have a trouble shooting model that amounts to anything but lip service and suggesting my buying parts in a flow chart of trouble shooting is acceptable. Do you guys get referral fees if I buy stuff that isnít broke?

I would advise anyone that trusts this blog to beware


That water valve solenoid probably died of natural causes.

Offline JWWebster

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2011, 10:18:53 AM »
What kind of water is the machine connected to well or city?
May the hinges of our friendship
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About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
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Offline klhglobal

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2011, 01:11:42 PM »
EXCELLENT QUESTION!

I am on city water. But the reason I find your question enlightening is to do with water pressure.
My washing machine is located on a covered patio. I plumbed my patio and garden faucets direct to city water pressure which is about 70 Ė 90 PSI. I bypassed the water pressure regulator so my outdoor water pressure would be max. The rest of my house is fed through a standard residential pressure regulator and I set that at 65 PSI.
SO for about 2.5 years the washing machine has been getting higher than average water pressure. I donít know what the spec is for a Maytag water inlet valve so I donít know if higher pressure could cause the valve to fail. I am guessing that the MAYTAG valve design upper threshold would be well above 100 PSI to take into consideration that not all homes have water pressure regulators. I would not be surprised if it was designed for at least 100 - 150 PSI.

Also I do not use the hot water side of the Maytag water inlet. I capped it. It only has cold water supply. However it is the hot water solenoid that appears to have melted. I believe this is what shorted out the lid switch fuse.

I apologize for my earlier post that may reveal my frustration with this issue. I am trying to avoid buying and replacing parts that may not be broken. For example, I wouldnít tear the engine out of my car because it wouldnít start until I check to see all the reasons it wonít start. It might just be a plugged $2.00 fuel filter.
And if it wasnít for this rotten economy, I would have just called a repair person. But money these days is tight and like many people, we have to knuckle down and try and do it ourselves.

I appreciate all your insights and thank you for your patience.


What kind of water is the machine connected to well or city?

Offline JWWebster

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2011, 04:51:32 PM »
Some water is what yall call hard water. It gets into the water valve and partially cloggs the inlets making the water dribble in instead of flow in like normal. As a result the washer takes longer than usual to fill. This added fill time makes the solenoid over heat with time. I have sold many many washer valves. I used to operate an appliance parts store. That is why I say that valve is simply a victim of normal wear and tear. Nothing spiked it.
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline klhglobal

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2011, 05:35:02 PM »
That makes sense about the water valve just wearing out. I goggled my cites water department website and it says we have some of the hardest water in the country.

So to this point I have verified my water valve is fried. Would this fried water valve also blow the lid switch fuse? It has a white wire that goes from the check switch to one side of the 4 amp fuse then pigtails down to the water valve.

I doesnít seem there was ever anything wrong with the lid switch assembly because it ohm tests exactly the same as the new lid switch I just bought. But everyone has insisted I need to replace it, even though I have asked if it could be something else. And the something else could be the fried water inlet valve. And I found that in a process of guessing that the 4 amp fuse might be shared be other functions.

So can a fried water inlet valve blow the lid switch fuse?

Offline JWWebster

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2011, 06:01:25 PM »
The fuse blows and she won't fill.
The check switch blows and she will fill but won't wash.
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline klhglobal

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2011, 06:33:53 PM »

Thanks for clarifying how the lid switch affects operation.
As I mentioned in previous posts the check switch and the other switch on the 4 amp board ohm out exactly the same as the new one I just bought.
So would it be safe to say the lid switch assembly is NOT the problem?

Knowing that the water inlet valve overheated, and is very likely fried; can a fried water inlet valve blow the lid switch fuse?

Can you think of anything else that could blow the 4 amp lid switch fuse?

Thank you for your time.

The fuse blows and she won't fill.
The check switch blows and she will fill but won't wash.

Offline JWWebster

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2011, 09:51:40 PM »
Yeah i would say your probo was a blown fuse due to bad watervalve.
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline jumptrout51

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Re: Maytag - to lid switch or not to lid switch, that is the question
« Reply #11 on: March 13, 2011, 07:19:08 AM »
The lid switch fuse will open based on a short circuit or over amping,obviously. Is it possible that your machine water temperature setting was switched to HOT with a capped valve that would overheat with no water passing?  Does the HOT water wire get power when calling for water while set for COLD? Remove the wires from the HOT side of the valve and run the machine. Does it still blow the fuse?
Take a Kid fishing.

 

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