Author Topic: previously Submerged Dryer won't start  (Read 2417 times)

Offline dr_zeus

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previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« on: March 08, 2011, 08:49:39 PM »
Evening Folks.
I've been reading your forums almost all day trying to find an answer to my problem.
My dryer was submerged in a flooded basement (12" of water) for about 12 hours. It was plugged into 220 the entire time (breaker did not trip- yikes!! :eek: ).
The water submerged the motor (and its switch), thermostats (2) and probably the thermal fuse.

We waited 5 days, attempted to start and- nothing. I have checked the therms and fuse with a multimeter and they are OK (closed).
Element checks out OK.
Don't know if elements heat up as I've not left it plugged in long enuff to find out.
When start is attempted, there is no sound at all from the motor (as I would expect if where frozen) and it turns freely by hand.
I can hear the very slight "buzz" coming from the timer.
AC is indeed fine with 2- 110 circuits.
Drum light works fine on opening of door (switch was not submerged).

I suspect maybe the switch attached to the motor? I can't find much online about its function so I'm not sure of its purpose.
If that is the probable culprit, should I just replace the entire motor and not just the switch?

Kenmore series 600 (electric)
model 110.67622600

Below is its schematic. (Unfortunately I don't speak fluent schematic)

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thank you VERY much.


Terry


Offline JWWebster

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2011, 09:13:53 PM »
Well now click on this pic and try this test. As you may can see you will be bypassing the switch entirely.
May the hinges of our friendship
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Offline dr_zeus

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2011, 09:40:09 PM »
Thank you very much for the quick response JW.
I have not yet tried this test cause I have a coupla (well, actually 4) quick questions as I'm not 100% sure how to proceed from the posted pic.
1). Can I use a standard indoor zip (extension) cord (obviously stripped and modified) to do this? Can it handle the temporary load of the motor?
2). Are we completely bypassing the switch using this method?
3). If the motor runs ,this test will verify (what) that the motor is not "blown" and that the switch is the problem and it alone needs to be replaced?
4). Are there other components in the line that could cause the motor not to get juice (which, at least to me, is the apparent problem at hand)

I apologize in advance if I sound ungrateful, because that's not the case at all. I guess I simply don't know enuff to proceed intelligently on my own. I do have marginal electrical, electronic and mechanical skills, probably just enuff to make myself dangerous!!

Thanx Again JW

Terry

Offline JWWebster

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2011, 03:25:39 PM »
All I have is an old lamp cord and 2 insulated alligator clips. Yes both the overload and the motor switch will be bypassed. This is just to see really if you have a open winding or locked motor due to bad bearing and such. You have a door switch and actuator the control itself and a duct fuse in that same circuit. All the other components are in the heating circuit. The motor itself terminals 1m and 2m carry the heater load so that the element can't be turned on unless the motor is running. This is called the cent switch. You either have an open component in the timer, door switch or fuse OR your motor is bad. Click on the pic below:
See the 2 small blue wires coming to it. The one side goes to the timer and the other blue wire powers the motor. If junk blocks the heat from escaping that dude melts and kills the motor.
« Last Edit: March 09, 2011, 03:47:01 PM by JWWebster »
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        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline JWWebster

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #4 on: March 09, 2011, 03:29:40 PM »
If that actuator is broken off she won't run either. Pop the top and unplug the door switch to check it. How to get into that puppy:


Take a look at the lid switch as the guy disconnects it. See the blue wire? Goes to that fuse. Same circuit. The white wire goes to the timer terminal marked W. The red wire in the video is more likely powering the light inside the dryer. Your machine has a black wire for the light. Looks like you have moisture sensing bars on the inside of the dryer. As wetness rubs against them bars a capacitor inside the control board gets discharged. When no more moisture is present the capacitor builds to point where that board powers up the timer motor and the timer moves towards the end of the cycle. .
« Last Edit: March 09, 2011, 03:46:19 PM by JWWebster »
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline dr_zeus

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #5 on: March 09, 2011, 07:52:36 PM »
Thanks JW.

The door switch, fuse, thermostats and start button are good.
I haven't had the guts to try the direct wire yet (I should get to it tomorrow).
I did some testing today across terminals 4 and 5 on the motor and received a reading of null.
Does this suggest open windings to you?

Thanks man.

Terry

Offline whirlpooltech

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Re: previously Submerged Dryer won't start
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2011, 02:44:05 PM »
Replace the motor.

 

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