Whirlpool Electric Dryer Won't Start

[Curt]

I have a Whirlpool LTE Large Capacity Thin Twin. When we got the used unit we needed to replace the timer, so we are pretty certain it is not the problem. The issue is that the washer works fine, but the dryer (which has run flawlessly for months) will not turn on. One repair tech I contacted supplied me with the L-56 repair manual Part No. 4314124 Rev.A. Using this manual, I have tested the door switch for continuity, the thermal fuse seems to have continuity, and the press to start switch also responds with my meter when contact is applied. It sounds like the only other two issues at hand would be the broken belt switch faulty (the belt is intact, so it's not the issue), or the motor itself. I have the machine stripped down to the access of the blower wheel. I have a 1/2" drive ready to remove the blower wheel but am not sure how to secure the motor shaft so that I can remove the plastic fan. I know it is reverse threaded, but I don't want to damage any pulleys or other components trying to secure the shaft. Any suggestions? Does this plastic blower need to be removed to access the broken belt switch for testing? How can i determine if the motor itself is the problem. We can't afford to have a tech come out, so I'm trying to be a diligent DIY. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks, Curt

Model LTE6234DQ1

[tgoods]

You say the thermal fuse seems to have continuity.  Disconnect one of the terminals and test it again.  It should be less than 1Ω. Don't remove the blower until you know the motor is bad.  The broken belt switch is by the motor pulley.  Check your timer.  It is rare for new timers to go bad but I've seen it.

[Curt]

Thanks,

I didn't try to test the thermal fuse with the terminal disconnected.  I just touched both connected terminals and got continuity.  I may have time to try that tonight.  Someone mentioned that the timer should be making a faint noise when it is set to dryer mode even when not running, but when I set it to a cycle, I don't seem to hear anything. Is that a helpful clue?  Also, to definitively test the timer with my meter, which terminals to test?  Connectors on or disconnected? Power plug in 220v or disconnected? 
Thanks for your help.

Curt

[JWWebster]

NUMBER 50 does it have continuity?

[RegUS_PatOff]

Neither thermal device will prevent the Motor from starting on this electric Dryer.
Timer, Belt Switch, Start Switch, Door Switch, Motor, and the input power connections.
When the Dryer is set to one of the Timed Dry Cycles, does the Timer Motor run ?

[JWWebster]

Reg is this another one of them dryers with the dual relays?

[RegUS_PatOff]

no
Timer, Belt Switch, Start Switch, Door Switch, Motor, and the input power connections.

[tgoods]

You're right.  I thought only the compact stack units had the thermal fuse in the heater circuit.  Apparently some of the full size stacks do too.

Check your timer for continuity between the black wire and the light blue wire.  For a live test, check for voltage at the motor.  Timer on, door closed, you should have 120v to 4M and 6M.  120v to 4M and 5M with start switch pushed.  If you have voltage then the motor is bad.

[JWWebster]

Number 50 is listed as a thremal cutout on the parts list. If that dude is open I would say that is the problem. Would love to know if I am right.

$22 is the cost of that puppy online right now

[jumptrout51]

Neither thermal device will prevent the Motor from starting on this electric Dryer.

JW's #50 will stop it from starting.

[RegUS_PatOff]

JW's #50 will stop it from starting.

not on this Dryer

[JWWebster]

Well then we will just have to yank out our trusty manual and take a look see
THIN TWIN
When we look at page 107 we see that yes indeed the thermal limit is wired in the motor circuit and will kill the dang motor if it is open. If you go by the schematic on the thin twin manual then it appears the limit has nothing to do with motor operation. I still think this number 50 is the key.

[RegUS_PatOff]

trusty manual and take a look see
THIN TWIN

If we look at page 1, we see that's not the THIN TWIN manual.

[JWWebster]

Reg is right, their ain't no fuse on this one that would kill the motor they only serve to kill the heating element. The door switch or a broken belt switch could kill the motor.

[jumptrout51]

  I hate it when I am less than right.