icemaker- how to identify and the problem I'm having

[tcape]

This looks like the standard icemaker that I've seen lots of times... how can I identify it? The problem is it looks like a frozen puddle of water in the ice bin and in the ice maker tray it appears to be a slab of ice. Is there someway I can troubleshoot this?

If I had to guess, it almost looks like the motor that drives the cubes out isn't working and the heater melts it and it leaks into the bin below, into a puddle of water then it freezes in the bin.

Model TCX22ZRBRAD

[JWWebster]

Behind that main drive wheel sometimes arcing will occur and cause the water valve to apply 20 to 30 seconds of water instead of 7.5 flooding the mold and making the slab in the ice bucket. Looks like a bad ice maker from what you describe.

[tcape]

If that would be the case, wouldn't it be easier to just unplug the current ice maker and install a new one?... provided they are still available?

I'm going back tomorrow to see how it looks and find the model number.

[ryan111]

If it is a lot of water leaking every cycle you either have a bad water valve or the problem JW was telling you about.

However if it is only a drop or two of water each cycle (you would be surprised how big of a ice block this can make) you can often repair this with some RTV silicone. This happens because water can follow minerals and imperfections in the mold or the water can come in too quickly and overflow the first cube model too fast.

Take the cube separator (stationary fingers) off and put a little RTV on the mold right where the water comes in. Then put the cube separator back in place.

If the refrigerator is old enough to have one of the round cube icemakers ignore this answer. This only applies to half moon cube icemakers.   

  

[tcape]

Went back today to look at it, model  WR30X0283.

There was a big frozen puddle in the ice bin and the mold was filled with ice but nothing moved and there are no ice cubes....

Is this really worth tearing into?  looks like I could get a replacement for around 120-140.


How would you make this thing go thru it's cycle if you wanted to test it?

[JWWebster]

Electronic ice maker manual for GE

POWER ON DIAGNOSTICS TEST MODE
When the icemaker is first connected to power and the thermistor temperature is 50°F or more, the control will initiate a “Power On” test before entering the freeze cycle. The test will consist of the following sequence:
1)Turn on the motor until it reaches home position
2)Turn on the water valve for 1/2 second
3)Turn on the heater for 1/2 second
4)Verify that the feeler arm was in the “in” and then the “out” position.
5)Verify that the motor was not in the home position and then in the home position.
6)Verify that the motor does not remain on after being turned off.
7)Proceed to the freeze cycle.
SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS TEST MODE
During the first 15 seconds that power is first applied to the icemaker, the Service Diagnostics Test mode may be entered. The Service Mode is entered by pushing the feeler arm in and out three times within 15 seconds. (only three times). There will be only one fill cycle (5.1 second) in the service diagnostics mode without the waiting period for the mold to “pre-chill”. If the icemaker has already started a harvest cycle and the arm is moving, it may be impossible to start the service mode. (since the NORMAL cycle is already started).
While in the “Power On Diagnostics” test mode, the “Service Diagnostic” test mode can be initiated and will override the “Power On Diagnostics” test mode.
This icemaker has no replacement parts available and is not intented to be repaired.**

[ryan111]

The part number crosses to the new style mechanical icemaker but I don’t know which one it actually has.

It could have the mechanical icemaker with the metal feeler arm that goes up and down. It could have the electronic icemaker with the green light (if this is the case run the diagnostics JW posted). It could be the newer mechanical icemaker with the plastic feeler arm that moves in and out (which is the one in the picture when you click on the model number link above).

If you have either of the mechanical icemakers pull on the arm that ejects the ice cubes until the icemaker rotates a little then it should cycle on its own. At the end if the cycle it should run water and you can see where the leak is coming from.

When I posted earlier I didn’t think to tell you that the ice being frozen in the fill tube or the fill cup could cause the leak. The fill tube is the tube that fills the icemaker water from the back of the refrigerator, if it is clogged or partially clogged water will leak. The fill cup is the plastic cup that the fill tube goes into from the back. If it is clogged with ice the icemaker will also leak. If either is the case clean the ice out and replace the water valve. When this happens typically there is no need to replace the icemaker.