Electrical burning smell coming from my fridge

[regnursepm99]

I am just wondering if anyone has ever heard of a problem like this.  My fridge seems to be working fine but today I kept smelling something burning.  It was a distinct electrical burning smell.  I pulled it out from the wall, undid the back and saw nothing that it could be to the eye.  The fan is working and everything seems to be running but the compressor was making a clicking noise when trying to come on.  It wasn't consistent with coming on either.  The food was cold and my freezer was fine.  Any ideas on what it may be?  Maybe a relay switch?  My model # is GD5SHGXKT01 serial #SL2828122  year 7/2001

Thanks in advance!!!!

[JWWebster]

Maybe you defrost heater went belly up, part # 2323198
Been known to happen you know.

[niobrara]

Hope I'm wrong but check your start relay, part  # 8201786
Check your amp draw on the compressor when starting and when running.

[regnursepm99]

I just tried to plug it back in and there's a clicking noise but the compressor doesn't come on...just the fan

[JWWebster]

What ya need to do then is inspect the compressor relay, part # 8201786


I suspect it is toast.
A common problem on refrigerators is that relay will simply fall apart. Click pics to enlarge

[regnursepm99]

Ok...so I took off the relay switch and opened it up...this is what I found.  Now I am certain it is the switch because it's burnt to a crisp.  My question is that I took a picture of the plugs that go into the switch and they seem a "little" burnt too.  Can I still use them?  They don't look "damaged" other than the colored plastic looks discolored.  I know I need to replace the switch but that's easy and replacing all the wiring on the fridge seems like a real pain in the ass.

[niobrara]

Wiring will be ok.Might want to change out the connectors on the wires.Just remember to check the amp draw when you put the new relay in.

[JWWebster]

You can use them wires again. It took a lot to get them wires like that. I have seen worse.

[ryan111]

Look at the terminals on the compressor to make sure they are not burnt. If so you will want to clean them with emery cloth before you try the new relay.

Unfortunately a lot of the time (not everytime) when I see a relay brunt as bad as yours the compressor is bad. If the compressor still will not start with the new relay the compressor is bad also make sure the compressor isn’t drawing too much current as suggested.

If you haven’t already ordered the relay you may want to make sure the compressor isn’t grounded out. If the compressor is grounded out you are wasting your money on the relay. Using an ohmmeter see if you have any continuity between any of the compressor terminals to ground and if so you know for sure the compressor is bad. Also make sure you do have continuity across each terminal. If not the one of the compressor windings is open. If the compressor checks ok then try the relay.

Disconnect power to the refrigerator and the compressor before testing with the ohmmeter. If you don’t have an ohmmeter just try the relay and if it works fine and if not the compressor is bad.

[regnursepm99]

So I bought a new relay.  It comes only in a kit.  Now what the heck do I do with it.  I've determined which switch I need but there's a "extra" that goes with it.  Do I have to take the actual relay apart?  PLEASE help me.  I have directions but they aren't very clear.

[jumptrout51]

Post a pic of the new relay.

[ryan111]

On this replacement part the overload and the relay are separate as opposed to your old one that was made together. The overload is the white switch with one hole and the relay is the black/brown switch with two holes. On the compressor the three terminals are in sort of a triangle, the overload (white) switch goes on the single (peak of the triangle) terminal first. Then the relay goes on the other two terminals. One of your wires connects to the overload and the other connects to the relay. The kit also comes with a cover that should have a slot for the wires and it should clip in place over the relay and overload.   


You will still have two overload/ relay combination switches left but these are for models with a single plug and I see from the pics yours has two separate wires. You will find there is nowhere to plug your wires on those other two switches.

So what I believe you are going to use is one small black relay, one small overload and the cover. The rest is not used on your model.

This is if this is the kit you got, part # 8201786

 

[JWWebster]

One hot wire goes through the white overload and the other hot wire goes to the run and start pins. Install the white part first and slide the black part next. Notice the relay holds the overload in place nicely. The overload feeds all the windings and the relay does too but the relay drops half the windings out when the motor gets up to speed. One side of the relay has 2 terminals where you can add a small capacitor to the mix if you have to have one.The other side of the relay is where you connect your power wire.

[regnursepm99]

I wish I would have seen this prior to calling the repair man.  It was the hardest call to make as I am used to fixing things myself.  My fridge plugs were not compatible with the new switch (hence my frustration).  He was here for literally 7 minutes and didn't use my new kit.  His new relay had no movable parts on it and looked different but work like a charm.  Repair cost was only $130.  thanks so much for your help

[JWWebster]

Tha'ts a good call. If you are unsure what to do sometimes you gotta punt. Glad you could get it fixed.