Dryer runs, but doesn't heat up

[JWWebster]

If the guy you bought it from sold it to you and said it would work I would try it. This is really a generic part. What you have is a simple switch that gets turned on by low voltage. It ain't rocket science.

[DannyT]

Yeah, well, after trying to find the part number for this relay, and reading the manual, it appears that this guy sold me a relay for a gas dryer, not the electric model. In the manual it reads:
"The terminal configurations for the relays used in the gas dryers and the electric dryers are different. The terminals on the relay used in the gas dryers are located on the top of the relay.  The terminals on the heavier relay used for the electric dryers (and repair for both gas and electric) are located on the end of the relay."

So now I have the wrong relay, and from what the manual says I shouldn't use it - I could do the reverse - use the relay for the electric in a gas unit, but not the other way around.

The load for a gas dryer on the high voltage side would be much less than the 220v going through the relay for the electric model, no?
When searching for the correct part, it shows up here: http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_666&products_id=38224
...so it wasn't superseded by the one he gave me, and I doubt it would work for very long if at all.

[JWWebster]

That part would not last too long maybe. I would go back and ask him if he thought the amp draw on that switch would affect the performance.

[DannyT]

So I have a new relay on it's way to me in the mail. It'll be a few days, maybe the weekend before I receive it.
The old relay had no continuity on the low side, so I'm assuming that relay is bad. [I did not check the heater relay in place with voltage to see if 24v to it closed it and thus activated the high voltage side. But the new (wrong) gas version heater relay did have continuity across the low voltage side.]

Question is, did the failure of something else cause the relay to fail (transformer?) and if there is some other failed part in this circuit with the heater will the new relay fail as well, or soon? What else should I check out before installing the new heater relay?
Or is the relay my only problem and once that's installed everything will be fine?

thanks

[JWWebster]

Well you know they install limits all around the heater and blower. Of course their would logically be a limit somewhere. You gotta look.

[DannyT]

What's a limit?  Sounds like a fuse.

[JWWebster]

Your heater assembly looks like a mailbox. That is why they call it that. On it is a black disc. Lotta folk call em Klixons. It is a 250 limit. If the heat goes above 250f it is supposed to kill the circuit to the mailbox. The amp draw will literally cook these guys over time. They will fall apart.

[DannyT]

Yeah, I got one of them and it doesn't look too bad.  I tested it for continuity and it's good.
I should have the new heater relay in mail tomorrow.

[jumptrout51]

What is the model number of your dryer?
SE-1000 does not work for me.
All I get from se1000 is a washing machine.

[DannyT]

Model is:     SE1000       Series  10    serial number   100502 XR

It is a stacked W/D electric dryer (that's what the E in SE stands for - the other version is SG1000 - and yep, you guessed it, the G stands for gas.)

anything else you want to know, I'll try and help.

[JWWebster]

Danny is this a commercial model?

[DannyT]

This is (was?) a stacked, washer/dryer, residential consumption

On this site I downloaded a manual, at this location
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=2946.0

at the bottom of the washer list, you will see stacked washer dryer listed as 16000416

[DannyT]

Relay arrived this afternoon - somewhat different connector config, but the number is the same. Installed it and everything seems to be working, that is, I GOT HEAT! If it fails, I'll be back!

My thanks to everyone here for their help and patience.