Whirlpool washer won't agitate/spin/drain

[Chris L]

Hows it going guys.  Please pardon my appliance repair grammar/noobness.
After searching for awhile on here I just decided to register.  Apparently my washer went out yesterday sometime while I was at work.  Won't agitate, spin or drain but will fill up.  When you put it on any cycle there is no noise of the motor trying to do anything.  First thing that came to mind was lid switch!...right?  Checked the switch and it was good.    Didn't feel like messing with it last night so I went to bed.  Got off work today and checked the drive couplings.  Not broken, cracked or damaged at all.  So now I'm like WTF?  Took the pump and motor off.  Inspected both and both looked fine.  Is there a fuse or something I don't know about?  I went to check the lid switch again but apparently I left the ohmmeter out and my youngest son felt like throwing it.  The unit is only about a year old.  Is it possible that the motor went bad?  How can I check it?  Anything else that I overlooked?


P.S.  I guess I like smileys.

P.P.S  I know I'm somewhat tired when I register for the site and it asked me how many sides a hexagon has...took me a minute.

Model ETW4400WQ1

[jumptrout51]

Check the water level switch.
If it is stuck or not making contact the timer does not switch to agitate or spin.
It may fill and stop filling,but not switch the power to the timer.

[Chris L]

What am I looking for exactly?  Continuity?  I checked the back and everything seems fine to the eye.  Looks like I'm gonna have to go and get another meter sooner than I thought.

[jumptrout51]

You open the control console. The service sheet is in there as is the water level switch.
Check the V P T terminals according to the service sheet for empty tub and full tub and power out to the timer.

[Chris L]

I'm in the military sir.  You're gonna have to break that down for me.

[jumptrout51]

You already know how to open the control console since you would have opened it to check the drive coupling and removed the cabinet.
Open it again. The water level switch is on the left.
Unplug the machine.
With a full tub of water,use the meter set for continuity.
Touch the V and T terminals on the water level switch AFTER you remove the wires from the switch.
If you get no reading,replace the water level switch.
If you do get a reading.replace the timer.

[JWWebster]

That rubber tubing comes off the switch or gets pinched against the cabinet then that switch won't function either but then the water would flood the house.

[tgoods]

I vote for the lid switch. I know you checked it but it might check good with an ohmmeter but then drop out with a load.  Check for a voltage drop at the switch while the washer is on.  I usually see a burnt terminal on these switches when they go bad.  If the terminal is burnt, replace it along with the switch.