Kenmore 110 won't agitate, spin or drain

[kimfixit]

I replaced the motor drive coupler on my washing machine yesterday. It was the old plastic type and definitely broken. The new steel one seemed to work. Agitated, spun and drained with just water in the tub to test it. Thought the fix was successful. Put in a small load, went upstairs, then later heard a screeching sound, ran down into a light haze of smoke and burning smell to unplug the machine overnite.
Tried the next morning and it agitated with a very loud clunking sound briefly, would start to smell hot then would shut off.
Decided to recheck the coupler (cog?) was flush with the gear case, seemed OK. Reassembled everything. Agitated loudly again, smelled hot, then would shut off.
With the motor removed from the gearcase, I can turn the coupler on the gearcase side one way for many turns, and the agitator moves back and forth, then turning the coupler on the gearcase the other way many turns the tub starts to move. I can manually drain the water into a bucket by lowering the drain hose to the ground, so all the hoses seem clear. The machine makes a humming sound now, no agitate, no spin and no drain. Humming noise stops after about 15-20 seconds, machine smells hot and shuts off automatically. Motor feels hot to the touch. Googled "Kenmore won't drain" and came across some posts and videos about the lid switch. All the lid switch wires and parts look fine to the eye. Is there a for sure way to tell if it is the lid switch versus the motor? I'm not comfortable with electricity and don't know anything about OHMs (?) Baby steps appreciated.

Model 110.92281100

[jumptrout51]

Pull your drain pump and look inside for a stuck garment or other debris.

[JWWebster]

You might have the coupling jammed too tight against the motor or tranny. Its binding up. Get a claw hammer and bad off the coupling till it turns free on both the motor and tranny.

[kimfixit]

The pump is clear. The coupler moves freely on the motor side. The coupler moves freely on the tranny(?) side until the basket/tub starts to move, then it requires more force. I pried the couplers off (very difficult to pry off the (tranny?) not on the motor, and reset them. Should it be super hard to pry the the coupler on the tranny off? Anyway, got the machine to do one spin cycle (very clanky loud). Progress toward diagnosing (motor not bad)? But once that one spin clycle was done, it's back to will fill with water, won't agitate, won't spin and won't drain. Still makes a humming noise, starts to smell hot, then clicks off.

[JWWebster]

Get the agitator and tranny out. (If it was me I would run the motor and tranny with pump on the bench to see if all of that is ok) Check the brake cam to see if the ear is broken off. (A common problem with these washers when the coupling and pump all check good.) This video shows how and where:

[kimfixit]

JW, Thank you for your response and the video! I greatly appreciate it! I finally found the time between 3 young kids and college classes to attempt the steps in the video. I followed the video and the brake cam ear looks fine. After putting everything back together I still have the same results, fills OK, no agitate or spin, no drain. How do I run the motor and tranny with the pump on the bench to check it as you have suggested? What would I watch for? Is there a video for that? Thanks in advance! I'm stepping out of my comfort zone somewhat, but the videos are very helpful and I'm enjoying trying to fix the machine on my own and am hoping to be successful with help.

[JWWebster]

That has got to be lid switch. or a broken wire
 Saw one just the other day. Click on pic to enlarge. If you will notice I have the lid switch completely jumped out with a blue butt connector to the right of the photo. The washer still would not say anything. Only when we discovered this broken red wire and fixed that did this machine come to life.

[kimfixit]

Thanks for the continued responses JW! You are a sweetheart! I can afford to replace the lid switch, so I will try that. The thing that stumps me is I can repeatedly pry off, then put back on the new couplers I bought 2 weeks ago (is it possible to set them incorrectly? all the parts, motor, clamps, pump go back on quite easily, so I think everything is correctly aligned, doing as the repairman in the video does too). The machine will then do an entire spin cycle or a few turns of the basket each time I reset the couplers (always very clanky loudly though) then the machine stops spinning, makes a humming sound, then smells hot and shuts itself off. Still a lid switch symptom? Ever encountered defective new couplers?

[kimfixit]

Just another note to be clear. The machine will hum (but no motion unless I continually reset the couplers), smell hot, then quit. I can turn off and unplug the machine for a bit (20 minutes or more), plug it back in, then it will hum again, smell hot, then quit, repeatedly. Please let me know if there are any other symptoms to check or things to try to narrow the problem down farther. Thanks!

[JWWebster]

You may need to remove the the agitator and transmission which is pretty easy. Take a look at the brake cam (the ear tends to break) and clutch.
Clicp piic to enlarge. If the ear is bad the brake won't release. Check for oil on the clutch.

[Washaman]

When you put the new reinforced coupler in, did you tap it in with a deep well socket to properly seat in? If not it could damage the motor.

[kimfixit]

When I replaced the coupler, I tapped it in with a hammer and the handle end of a screwdriver as I was following the guy in this video
I'm hesitant to jump the lid switch, with all the WARNING YOU COULD INJURE YOURSELF OR DIE warnings, unless there is a video to view first. Kind of scared of electricity. I went to get a lid replacement switch last week, per JW's help, and the repair tech at the appliance part store listened to my story and washer symptoms and insisted it has to be a bad motor if it hums, smells hot then shuts off. I don't know how to test for sure that it is the motor. JW, per your suggestion, run the motor and tranny with pump on the bench to see if all of that is ok. Is there a video for that? When I took the agitator and tranny out to check the brake cam ear I did notice grease type build up. Is that normal? I didn't know if I should clean it off in case the machine needed it for moving parts.
Maybe I damaged the motor when I replaced the coupler?
Motors are about $160, not worth the cost of replacement. I'd use that amount toward a new machine if need be. I'm about to go buy a new washer (3 kids and clothes piling up or $2/load at the laundry mat). Any suggestions? Are the new HE front loaders really worth the higher ticket price? Anyone know of a screamin' deal on a new machine? I can get a used top loader for $99 locally with a 6 month warranty. Thanks again, and in advance for any further help.

[JWWebster]

Can you post any pictures?

[Washaman]

Sounds like motor.

[kellonnie]

with coupler in place, try to turn coupler if it turns ok then coupler is in correctly, if it doesnt turn it is jammed and need to be reseated.