Whirlpool dishwasher will not fill

[aaron2010]

I recently picked up a Whirlpool dishwasher (model # GU2500XTPQ3 ) and it will not fill, so effectively, it doesn't work.
The front panel lights up, when you press 'start', the motor does spin, but no water enters. There is an adequate water supply and the inlet valve has 115 volts to it (verified). I put an VOM across the inlet valve terminals and got .001.  The water level valve inside moves very freely up and down.
I'm doing this testing in my garage, so I have cold water hooked up at this point - would this make a difference?
Anyway, I'm not sure what the problem is with this machine as I got it used and the previous owner just said 'It doesn't work'.
Any ideas to get me started on a diagnosis?
Thanks in advance.

[JWWebster]

While we is waiting on a dishwasher repair person lets look at yore TECH SHEET
and see can we figure out where to start

[AJ]

There is an adequate water supply and the inlet valve has 115 volts to it

Then replace the water valve.

I looked up the model number of your dishwasher and found that your dishwasher uses part # 8531671 water valve.

[JWWebster]

890–1090Ω is what you should be a gettin on the water valve solenoid. You gettin 001 sounds like ya needs a water valve amigo.

[aaron2010]

Thanks for the responses. The inlet valve is basically a 115v solenoid connected to a water valve that attaches to the copper water supply pipe of your house. The water flow rate would be determined by the diameter of the copper supply pipe unless the valve itself poses some sort of flow restriction. The solenoid is simply 'on' or 'off', so no variable switching is used or needed..
The uniqueness of each inlet valve for each model of dishwasher would be in the mounting bracket or maybe if it was a valve that had two solenoids (mine only has one).
With that in mind, what possible harm could come from using a known good inlet valve from a different brand/model/year dishwasher? Obviously, I would have to fab up a mounting method, but it should work, right? Comments, please...

[whirlpooltech]

unless the valve itself poses some sort of flow restriction

and the dishwasher fills on time. The float is just there as a back up safety device encase power to the valve does not get cut off when it should by the timer or the control board.

Replace the water valve with the correct part and you won't have a problem. 

[JWWebster]

You must use the correct water valve for this dishwasher. The valve is a metered valve. Very critical.

[whirlpooltech]

btw: don't count on the float cut off the flow of water every time because you put in the wrong water valve. Once the water level is high enough that the float has cut the power to the water valve the dishwasher is fuller then it should be and chances are you will have soapy water running out from under the bottom of the door when it runs.

[AJ]

but it should work, right?

Maybe, maybe not. You may get lucky and get one that works the same as the factory one.

Like the other technicians have already said I would recommend replacing the water valve with the correct one.

[aaron2010]

OK, let's see if I understand this correctly - the water valve actually meters the volume of water that enters the dishwasher? How does it do this? When the solenoid opens, doesn't it allow a full flow of water to enter the inside or is the flow somehow metered? The interior diameter of both the valves currently on the dishwasher and the replacement valve I have in hand (from some long gone and forgotten dishwasher) are both larger than the diameter of the copper tubing that will be feeding it, so the tubing will be more restriction than the valve.
Money is very tight right now and I'm trying to come up with a economical solution (otherwise I would just buy a new dishwasher rather than mess with someone else's cast offs).
Thanks again.

[AJ]

The water valve has a rubber diaphragm with a small orifice in it.

If you can take the old one apart and see what's inside it.

[aaron2010]

I hooked up the 'mystery' inlet valve (and secured it with zip ties) and it seems to have done the trick. I ran a empty load halfway through the 'normal' cycle and everything seems to be working (as far as I can tell since I'm nowhere near a dishwasher expert).  Tomorrow, I will actually put some dirty dishes in it and run a complete load cycle, then let the boss pass judgement before I actually bring it into the house. Wish me luck.
PS: I'm sure my neighbors wondered why I was sitting in my garage reading and sweating while a dishwasher sat in the driveway hooked up to a garden hose and an extension cord. Oh well, keep 'em guessing I always say. If they think I'm nuts, they'll leave me alone.   

[aaron2010]

AJ,
I just read your response and I did take it apart. Now I understand how the water is metered and how different manufacturers' could specify a specific fill rate by vrarying the orifice size. I hope that the inlet valve I installed won't cause a problems. I think I will run several loads through various cycles in my garage before I chance bringing it into the house. Thanks for the info everyone!

[JWWebster]

TY Arron, Happy fourth of July

[jumptrout51]

PLEASE. When dealing with water or electricity use the recommended parts.......not substitute parts.
They are recommended for a reason.