Kenmore gas dryer will not stay hot

[kim100]

My Kenmore dryer will start, light, tumble, but flame will go out after a minute or so and will not come back on.

I have replaced the coils, but still does not re-light.  I tested the cycling thermostat and it seems to be okay. 

What else should I look at?

Model 110.76912692

[schaffersapplian]

Make sure your vent is clear.

Check the airflow on the outside of the house, not just at the back of the dryer.  Make sure it is good an strong.

A "short cycle" can occur due to not enough air pulling the flame to the back of the burner cone, Leaving the flame short and bushy, and directly placing heat onto the Hi Limit Thermostat.

[kim100]

I forgot to say that I did clean out all the ducts and changed the flexible duct.  I tried running the dryer when the duct was not connected and it still did not re-light.

The flame seems to blow towards the back pretty well, but I'm not sure what its supposed to look like.  There is quite a bit of ait coming from the vent on the outside of the house.

Could it be in the temperature control or the flame sensor?

[schaffersapplian]

when the machine lights, and then goes out, does the igniter come back on, just nothing happens, or does the igniter just not come back on after the first initial cycle of heat? 

[kim100]

I have not seen the igniter glow again after the first time.

[JWWebster]

Might be the flame sensor taking to long to cool down, part # 338906
Seen it. The flame sensor is really a ignitor sensor. It's bi-metal within bends when heated to the point of opening contacts and killing power to the ignitor. The coils which are on the same circuit get boosted by the extra power flooding in from the now dead in the water ignitor. Gas rushes outwards and colides with that scaREAMing hot ignitor and KA wooshhhh you have igniton Houston. While those coils are most likely to be a problem that sensor can also play tricks on a gas dryer.

[kim100]

I have just let the dryer run after the flame goes out just so my clothes will get a little dry.  It will run for a long time without re-lighting.  Long after the whole dryer is cold. 

I can try replacing the flame sensor, if that is a possibility.

[kim100]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I let you know what happens

[SilentKnight]

You never replied with your results?  I am guessing the flame sensor fixed your problem?  I would really like to know because I have the exact same symptoms.

I have tested everything on my dryer with a multimeter and everything tests good, including the coils.

My symptoms are identical to yours, the flame lights and stays lit.. but when I come back hours later the clothes are cold and wet. 

[SilentKnight]

I tested my flame sensor with a multimeter and got a reading when cold, I put it next to a light bulb and it switched to no reading.  It appears to be working ok?  I tested my solenoids with a multimeter as well and every number matched what I was supposed to get,  (I also have an old bad set of solenoids that I did the same test on and got the correct 'bad' results so I am assuming my solenoid testing was ok?  But I also read that solenoids can't really be tested.. I also read that if they are bad then there shouldn't be a flame at all.  I can't figure out what to replace on my dryer.   my symptoms are the same as the OP. dryer lights with a strong flame for up to 2 minutes and then goes out, I have ran it w/o the vent connected so I am assuming my vent pipe is not clogged, I have also felt the air flow outside and it is strong.  I have tested all the fuses and sensors on the back of the dryer with a multimeter and all have continuity. 

Any other ideas?

[RegUS_PatOff]

..I have tested everything on my dryer with a multimeter and everything tests good, including the coils.. 

Coil operation can't be tested with a Meter...
they get sluggish when warm.. and won't open the Gas Valve again.




Gas Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit Part # 279834

[PARTech]

Also, one of them operates to start the flame, then your flame sensor turns on the other and turns off the 'start'.  So you could get a start flame that would turn off as soon as the flame sensor got hot.

[JWWebster]

The ignitor detector(flame detect), those coils, and the ignitor are all energized at once. One of them coils has 3 wires to it. the other has 2. The 3 wire coil is also wired to the ignitor to allow current as long as the gas flame is hitting the ignitor. If the flame sensor were to shut down and for some odd reason the gas did not ignite, when the ignitor cooled down it would kill the power to the gas valve. That is the built in safety. Why don't the gas come out when it is energized? Because the resistance in the circuit has to change. It does that by dropping out the ignitor and flame sensor. Then the ignitor takes over as a sorta thermocouple device and allows the whole shebang to stay a going until the power is shut down when the drum air klixon mounted on the blower is satisfied. This cycling continues all throughout the drying process. Them coils get IFFY with age and can fool you. The flame sensor IN RARE CASES will hang up, the ignitor is either going to be good or bad no in between. Replace them coils is what I would do.

[SilentKnight]

Thanks!  I have purchased new solenoids from the internet, part # 279834 after a local shop quoted my $47.10...   So I have to wait a few days, but I should be able to get them installed by the weekend.

[SilentKnight]

Thanks, just fyi, the new solenoids fixed my problem.  I also cleaned out my dryer and dryer vent.