No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer

[babs277]

Hey ... Anybody there?
I bought that multi-meter thing, but I can't figure out how to use it.  There are 3 holes I can plug into, but only two wires???  I watched the video on how to use a multi-meter, but it wasn't much help to me.  I guess I'm stupid. 
I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me out.  I have to test that thermal fuse thing ... and the other fuses.
By the way, JWWebster, I took that lint duct cover off ... vacuumed it out ... but I'd like to remove the blower wheel if it's not too hard.  I can't figure out how it comes off.  There's some white stuff caked on the spokes and my vacuum cleaner isn't picking it up very well ... won't fit in there.
PLEASE ... someone get back to me asap.  I'm ready to test this baby?
Thanks!
babs

[JWWebster]

You do NOT have to remove the blower wheel
the meter needs to be on the OHMS setting the GREEN range. preferably on the audible beep setting (If you have one) If continuity is present a little BEEEEEEEP can be heard. Neat ain't it? The  fuse as pictured should be seen next to that blower NOT BEHIND IT> if you trying to remove the blower wheel you is working WAY TOO HARD>

[babs277]

JW,
I sent you an email.
babs

[babs277]

Hello All,

I think I figured out how to use this meter.  If I did it right, the fuses checked out ... beeped! 
I checked ...
 BOTH Thermal Cut-offs (on the heater case/box)
 and the Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing. 
Basically ... I checked everything I could find.

I still haven't checked the voltage where the wires come into the dryer.  I'm not sure how to do that.  Help!

There is a white thing with wires that go through the heater box directly to the heater coils.  That white thing DID NOT beep ... but I'm not sure if it should have or should not have.  Is that a thermostat?  Should I check it?  How?

Also, do I have to remove all those attachments to the heater box in order to get the element out?  I haven't really been able to check it thoroughly with it still inside the box.  I was afraid to pull it out.

Any advice will be appreciated!
Thanks!
babs

[babs277]

I guess you all went to bed ... or maybe you're just sick of hearing from me. 
I had hoped to get this thing done tonight so that I could order the parts I need ... Oh Well!  Tomorrow's another day!
I've got to get some sleep before I crack up!  But before I go, I have a couple questions that hopefully someone will take pity and answer for me.

When I was checking the thermal fuse on/behind the lint duct housing, there were two sets of wire "things" going into it.  One set was mounted the outter sides of the fuse.  The other set (violet) was mounted on TOP of the fuse.  I checked the two outside ones and they tested okay.  But the two violet wires on the top DID NOT.  Should all 4 wires have tested okay for continuity?

My other question is about testing the heating element itself for continuity.  I read in another post that I should remove one of the fat red wires going to the element and to then test for continuity.  I tested every which way I could think of ... removing one wire and then the other ... touching this and then that with the probes, etc.  I DID NOT get a beep. But, I'm not sure I placed the probes in the right places, etc. 
Could someone please tell me the proper way to do this?

Finally ... does the dryer have to be plugged into the outlet when I do the voltage tests ... which I have no idea how to do with this meter I have.  Do I test the outlet itself?

Well ... Night Night my friends!  Take care!
babs

[JWWebster]

You don't check the wires. you remove the wires and check the thingys that they attach to. these are sensors or fuses. You gotta remove at least one wire from each one so that you won't get a FALSE reading from a loop. I would touch the 2 leads together and move the selector of the meter around until you get an audible beep. This beeping makes it easy to see if you have a circuit. If any of these sensors are OPEN then they interupt the power to the heating element. This is a good thing. It keeps the lint filled dryer from catching fire.

[Repair-man]

Let's go back to your previous post. You said you checked "the thing with white terminals going into the heater". Well, that WAS the heater. The 2 terminals come thru a small ceramic insulation block and stick out so you can put wires on it. If there was no beep, the heater is bad. I've never worked on a Princess, but our old expert JW is likely full of comments by now.

The other thermostat you mentioned with the 4 terminals is a bias thermostat, or sometimes called the operating thermostat. When the dryness sensor is satisfied, the controls sends 240 volts to the top 2 wires (violet) on this thermostat. The top terminals are a heater that opens the lower set of contacts when the dryer is hot enough. You should have gotten a reading thru the top 2 as well, but it will not be full continnuity. If your OHM scale is set to Rx200 or more, you'll see a reading.

You need a new heater...don't worry about voltage checks right now.

[JWWebster]

You need an element $60

[babs277]

Hello Hello Hello!!
Thanks for getting back to me.  I was just downstairs poking around in the dryer.  I have one of those long hand held mirrors, so I used it with a flashlight and wrote down the actual numbers and locations of every part I could find to test.
 
Upon reading JW's previous comment, I tried testing the Thermal Fuse (#3390719) at the base of the terminals as well as at the top on the plugs.  I got a beep at the top but NOT at the bottom.  I had tried to pull the wires off but couldn't.  Is there some trick to getting these plugs off?  Where should I be grabbing them ... I don't want to damage the wires.
So what do ya think. Is my Thermal Fuse #3390719 bad?

Also, when I tested the heater coil, I removed both wires and touched the plug terminals ... male end??  No beep.  I tried one then the other ... inside and out ... No Beep.  You said that that white thing is ceramic ... mine looks like plastic.  Am I looking at the right thing?

Please let me know if you think the Thermal Fuse is bad due to the fact that it did not beep at the base of the terminals.  And could that effect the other heater thing?  When I said earlier that I had tested everything, I had NOT removed wires ... only touched the terminals at the top.

Thanks guys!  I was really getting discouraged!
babs

[JWWebster]

anythang that does not beep is defective! replace it.

[babs277]

Hi Guys!
I just wanted to let you know that I ordered the parts for my dryer yesterday.  They should be here Monday ... or maybe Tuesday. 
I ordered ...

Part# 3387747 Heater Element
Part# 3390719 Thermal Fuse
Kit# 279769  which includes ...
Part# 3977394 Thermal Cut-Off
Part# 3390291 Thermostat 250*F (121*C)
I got a pretty good deal ... so I decided to cover all my bases ... hopefully!
I was wondering about all the lint that was inside my dryer.  Is that "normal"?  I cannot imagine how so much could have built up in there.  True ... I never cleaned it before, but it still seemed like way too much.  The dryer is only about 6 years old ... I think!
So do ya'll think it's normal ... or could a seal/gasket be damaged in some way.  I was just wondering!
So, if you experts are willing, I may need some advice when I install all these parts.  It looks fairly straight forward, but you never know. 
Hey JW ... I read about a "trick" in one of your other posts ... that there is some kind of moisture sensor thing that should be cleaned on some dryers.  Is that something I should do?  If so, where is mine and what does it look like?
Many THANKS to all of you who have so generously given of your time and talents to help me out!
Sincerely,
babs

[JWWebster]

Yall need to clean the lint filter after every load
The moisture sensor picks up continuity between the 2 probes on the inner wall as the clothes rub up against them. As long as moisture is detected the timer will not advance.

[babs277]

JW ... your comment from that old posting was this ...

"Down here we have determined a simple removal and cleaning of the contact on this tiny board will make it do its thang once again. Another trade secret. Shhh They will all be doing it!!!"

Should I remove and clean the contact on MY tiny board while I have the dryer apart?  Do I even have a tiny board?  Come on ... share the secret!!  LOL!

babs

[JWWebster]

I would not bother with it UNLESS the timer would NOT advance. The way to do it is simply yank it out of it's socket and clean the contacts good with alcohol. But if the dryer is working fine I wouldn't bother with that step. It has nothing to do with heat, It is about wetness.

[Repair-man]

Babs, what you really need to think about is what caused this in the first place. Thermal fuses, heaters and motors generally don't fail at the drop of a hat. They usually need some encouragement. This comes in the form of a restricted or improperly installed vent. Up till now, no one has asked you about the vent sytem you have, but I would like to know the details if you please. Things that you might mention are:

1. Type of duct on back (foil slinky, plastic white, semi-rigid metal, etc.)
2. Where does the vent run to? (up, straight out, how long?)

I'm only asking because I don't like to see people having the same problem again and again if they can avoid it. I'm not made of money, and I don't think you are either. Before you answer with these details, you might have a look at some tips on proper venting that I have posted here.