Maytag dryer runs but does not heat

[hookcapn]

Dryer does not heat,
No igniter glow.
Exhaust clear
I'm now watching 4 month old granddaughter and need to repair dryer soon.

Model LDG8410AAW

[jumptrout51]

Use your volt meter and verify power to the ignitor.
If you have power  and no glow,replace the ignitor.

[JWWebster]

Check your flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber. No continuity=Bad sensor. Check your thermal limit.

[JWWebster]

Does it work at all?

[hookcapn]

yes but no heat

[hookcapn]

Finally got my act together.
Front panel is off,
Door closed and door switch still attached

Voltage at outlet=118.2
Turned dial and pressed start button
Voltage at Igniter connector changes from .0000 to .0002 negligible

Continuity checked at sensor and appears OK

[jumptrout51]

You must unplug the machine and remove the wires from all components to be checked for continuity.
Those components are;
the flame sensor =should have continuity.
the hi-limit thermostat and cycle thermostat=both should have continuity.
If they check OK the problem will be in  the centrifugal switch in the motor (neutral line)or the timer not sending L1 power.

[JWWebster]

with the machine running are you getting 118v to the quick connect at the gas assembly?

[hookcapn]

Back to the dryer
In each instance I disconnected both wires

The flame sensor( assuming that is on the left next to the igniter) has no continuity.

The sensor forward on the cone but on the right has continuity.

I do not know where the third sensor mentioned is located.

I attached a picture, if that would help.

[jumptrout51]

The 3rd sensor(control thermostat) is on the exhaust duct where the blower wheel is located.
It has 4 wires.
Unplug the 2 larger wires and check the continuity therein.
The flame sensor is bad. Replace it.

[JWWebster]

Flame sensor no continuity? That is your problem amigo. Now here is an old school way we check for a bad flame sensor. Door switch is jumped out. Front panel is removed and the drum is out. Gas and power is connected. Both wires to the flame sensor are removed and in my tiny little hands. I start the dryer in the cotton cycle. No drum is in the dryer I have cleaned out the lint. I touch the flame sensor's 2 wires together. This causes the ignitor to glow. After about a minute or so I seperate the wires (I have in effect become the flame sensor) The ignitor shuts off and the solenoids get zapped with all that power that the ignitor was hogging. I know that the flame sensor is bad if I can make the gas assembly fire off. Be prepared to kill the power to conclude the test or at least have the kids ready with hot dog weiners or marshmellers! It should be called an ignitor sensor instead of a flame sensor because it does not detect the actual flame produced by the gas assembly, it detects the heat coming off the ignitor and simply opens and kills the power to the ignitor. The coils then have enough juice to allow gas to escape the valve and dance on that screaming hot ignitor.  Of course I have a meter and would know it anyway but if I was a home owner I could check it like that couldn't I? Note: It helps to have a friend that can unplug the dryer for you after you have done this simple test. It be kinda hard to kill power and not drop them 2 live wires in yer hands. While I am at it I want to check the gas assembly 6 or more times to heat up them solenoids so that I know they are not getting hot and quiting. That's just me.

[hookcapn]

Great ordered part last night.
Away for weekend will install Sunday or Monday, assuming part arrives Saturday.

Thank you for your help and patience.
Now let's see if I get it to work, and put back together.

Any knack to replacing front panel?

[whirlpooltech]

Are you sure LD38410AAW is the correct model number? I could not find that model listed when I tried to look up information on it.

[schaffersapplian]

Its a LDG8410AAW

[hookcapn]

LDG8410AAW is the right #
Boy they are hard to read, even filled in with graphite.