Could it be the timer???

[lee54]

My washer will not finish it's cycle. It gets to the end then it just starts and stops spinning forever. Only spins for 5 or 6 sec's then stops then it spins again. In the past, I would have knew it was the timer but these days I'm not sure. And with it doing this, we make it turn off but the door will not unlock.  Any ideas???  :embarrassed:

Model MAH4000AWW

[jumptrout51]

Check your drain pump for obstructions.

[Mr. Fix-It]

Sounds like a faulty door latch assembly if you can't get it to unlock. You should check the control circuit board as well as this problem causes the board to short out sometimes. Look for a burned out resistor on the left side of the board above the blue capacitor the resistor # is r-11.

[lee54]

Thanks for the leads guys! I did look at the board, didn't see anything burnt. I'll check it all again though just to make sure that R11 has the right values. And I'll sneak a peak at the pump also. The reason I was thinking it was the timer is that it's never been right, just a little out of sync. The older ones I use to be able to get them close, but I can't see anyway of fixing this one. Thanks again!!!

[Mr. Fix-It]

The door latch is probably the probem.

[Repair-man]

Actually, it may be one of the sensors in the spin loop around the tub. We had problems with the inertial balance switch (black capsule on top) and also the bottom  white tub dispacement switch.  You can jumper the MOlex connector near the back of the tub (top up) and see if the  machine repeats the same  problem to rule out one of these switches. It has 2 blue wires on it and you don't even have to disconnect the connector, just add a jumper across the 2 leads using a short wire.  My money is on a stuck bottom switch, but who knows?

A failing motor control board can cause similar symptoms right before it goes out completely. It can be visually inspected for signs of overheated components and replaced with the 12002039 kit if found to be burned looking.


Part # 12002039 Motor - Drve, AP4010145

[lee54]

Ok, here's what I have found so far. I checked the board and all seems well. I found that the tub still has water in it even after we force the door to unlock. The clothes are not wet but there is still some water in the tub. I took the pumps off and checked the ohms, one has a reading of 14.9 and the other has a reading of 28.2. I can't understand how the water did not drain from the tub when I disconected the pumps and hose's. Is this common that some water will stay?

[Mr. Fix-It]

No sounds like something is plugging the outer tub. Take the hose from the tub to the pump off and see if you can fish out whatever it is.

[lee54]

Lol, stuck my finger as far as I could in there and couldn't feel anything. 

[Repair-man]

Then replace the pump...it is obviously not draining the meager 4 gallons of water from the tub. If not, the water pressure switch will prevent the spin cycle.

[lee54]

Auh, the pumps are all good. The water I found out is in the front tub drain. I took an air hose to it to clear it out, now if it drains I think I'll have it made. Going to run it once and see what it does.

[lee54]

Well, no luck on the water draining from the front of the tub. It's full of water. The air I shot into it didn't do it. 

[JWWebster]

You must have a sock in the sump; with the pump hose off water won't drain from the tub?

[Repair-man]

The tub cover not only has a drain plug in the bottom but also has an open  grid along the  lower edge. If this was just a matter of water in the door boot, it would drain out on its own. The fact that it is still standing means the water has not drained  from under the tub. I usually unplug the machine, go around back and clamp off the hose between the  tub and the pump, then remove the pump (left one is the drain pump while looking in from back). There may be a quarter stuck in the pump intake or sumpin.

Pinch off pliers (auto parts store)