Creda dryer runs but makes only a little heat

[goldstonemr]

hello all, i have been given a creda dryer that runs but makes very little heat.  the heat button is depressed to select full heat, also i turn the timer round to the max.  its about as warm as my breath!  i have cleaned the dryer thoroughly for lint, etc - none found!  the timer does not tick down - i presume it should?
thanks, john.

Model creda tu12

[JWWebster]

well dude I had to dig deep to find this element in the UK

http://www.appliancepartsdirect.co.uk/store/product/14529/10001---Heater-Element/

Trying to get parts in the UK must be quite a chore.

Either you have a bad element or a bad electrical breaker.

[goldstonemr]

thanks for the info, so you dont think the timer is anything to do with it?
should it 'tick' down, and does it matter that it doesnt (as long as i dont leave it on all night!) ?

[JWWebster]

It s a strong possibility it is the timer. Follow the heat wire from the element to the timer. I am only guessing but this creda dryer is supposed to be a hotpoint and that is GE. I am thinking their are maybe 2 of them elements and one is gone out. Or maybe you have a burnt contact where it is marked RH. This is just a guess but I believe this timer can be taken apart and the points on the contacts cleaned with a file. I have done it on hotpoint timers. If you have the dryer unpluged. you can put a meter between RH(with RH wire removed)by turning the knob you should get continuity between rh and other terminals on the timer. If you cant get a reading then the points on that terminal are burnt. Sometimes these can be cleaned with emory cloth or sandcloth. Have you got any pics of the timer?

[goldstonemr]

hello, i checked the continuity across the heat switch and it switches ok.  i found the 2 little thermostat cut offs and there is a continuity, individually, through the pair of them.
pics of timer...




hope these make sense to you!!
i didn't notice any obvious signs of burnt out parts - im starting to think, like you said(!), its one, or both, elements.

[JWWebster]

It looks like the element is right there between the limit switches and the fan. Obviously the red blue and orange wires going to the timer there, so those heavier wires there draw a lot of current from the heating element. You should disconect one wire going into theses safetys and check for continuity between the safetys and through that heaing element. By disconecting a wire from each component it will eliminate the possibility of getting a FALSE reading. The timer by the way is a model that I have seen on machines from other countrys and I aint got a clue as to what you can do to fix it. You can clearly see that the heating energy does go through the timer so if all those safetys have continuity and the heating element as well then it has to be that timer would it not? By the way those 2 white safetys are limit switches and not controllers. Somewhere on that machine is another disk that determines the drum air temp. It will be mounted on the blower housing where the vent pipe is. This thermostat judges the temperature in the dryer and maintains the temp by shutting on and off constantly during the drying cycle. It is a posibility IT has failed. If any of these items do not have continuity then that is why you have no heat.

[goldstonemr]

hello again, i have replaced the element with a small amount of success but...its still not right.
the element has 4 coils, on low heat only 1 coil glows red, on high heat only 2 coils glow red.  i would of thought that on low heat setting 2 coils should glow and on high heat setting all 4 would glow.
if my presumption is correct...whats happening?  is there something straightforward that can cause this?
thanks for your input, john.

[JWWebster]

Seems to me like maybe you have a problem with the current going into the appliance. Maybe you need to check circuit breakers and such. I have no idea what kind of system you have for electrical. Where are you in the world if you don't mind my asking?

[goldstonemr]

im in england.
are the circuit breakers the 2 little things above the element with wires coming in and out?

[JWWebster]

well those are limit switches. What I am speaking of is your electrical current. Nothing at all to do with the appliance. The wall current may be faulty I an thinking . Are you getting the full amount of voltage from the wall. You have 220 volts for wall current do you not? Is this appliance on a dedicated line with dual breakers to cover the motor and heating system I guess is my question.

[Repair-man]

They use 230 volts @ 50 Hz.  Ours is a bit faster wavelength at 60 Hz in the states. No doubt they found a circuit issue.

[goldstonemr]

our house had a total re-wire less than 12 months ago, i have checked the voltage in the socket and its 240v.
i have checked the voltage across the element
brown ->orange (on element) 240v
blue ->orange (on element) 240v (on high heat setting only).
blue ->brown (on element) 0v.
voltage is also 240v across 1 limit switch to the other limit switch.
help please!!!

[Repair-man]

If there is 240 volts at the heater, it should heat if it is OK.

Your best bet is to unplug the dryer and start checking these parts the proper way...by resistance. Use the OHM setting on your meter to test the 2 terminals of each component. All should show full continuity,

[RegUS_PatOff]

while running, there should be 0v across each limit switch (from one terminal of the limit switch to the other terminal of the same switch)

[goldstonemr]

while running, there should be 0v across each limit switch (from one terminal of the limit switch to the other terminal of the same switch)

i do get 0v across the limit switches, individually

less than 0.5 ohms (0.35ohms) across limit switch with blue/brown wires to it.
less than 0.5 ohms (0.1ohms) across limit switch with 2 orange wires to it.
Are these poor readings?
Is it possible to directly bypass the limit switches to see if this would prove/disprove faulty component?