Old style GE tranny problem

[DIY_guy]

After about 17 years of trouble free use, our GE washer has
finally broken down. There has been evidence of oil underneath
for quite some time, but always ran well until a few months ago
when I noticed the washer would make a tapping noise with each
agitation. It now will not agitate or spin, just fill and pump the water
out. There was a burnt rubber smell when I found it dead, popped
off the back and saw that the belt was in pretty sorry shape.
The basket seemed to be locked and there was a skid mark around
the inner part of the cabinet and oil on the clutch. Yanked the
agitator with a little effort (it had never been off). The drive
tube had some corrosion on it which I scraped off and am thinking
maybe I should spray it with primer if I can get the tranny out.
I had tipped this thing up against a wall to get a better look. I
would say there was a coating of oil on the floor but it wasn't like
it was a puddle. I tried to take the 3 bolts out of the basket, but
it has now freed up. Have a new belt, but need to know how do
I get the basket to stay put so I can ratchet the bolts out? I'm
thinking if I can get a seal and replace the lost oil I might be ok.
Any thoughts on how I can get the bolts free? Not able to get any leverage with it spinning. Thanks...Mark.

Model WWA8898MAL

[jumptrout51]

You can use a helper to hold the inner tub while you use the ratchet.
Sometimes a board wedged between tubs works.
Using a very long ratchet extension gives more torque on the bolts.
A impact wrench can help.

Here is your seal:

[JWWebster]

I use a good fitting box end wrench and a ballpeen hammer to get the bolts loose. Lefty loosey they are regular threads. Just tap the end of the wrench till the bolts get loose. Then get the bolts out. Lift out the inner tub. Then remove the rubber boot. Then remove 6 5/16th screws and lift the tranny out. Flip it over and remove the pulley and base. Mark the base so you put it back at the same spot. Knock out the seal and put some oil on the new seal. Tap it in using a wood block. Take care not to disturb the large O ring around the base. Fill the tranny with 2 quarts of cheap dollar store 30 weight oil. Reinstall the base and pulley and do not over-tighten the bolts.  The hardest part is getting them 3 bolts off. Tip: Fill the tub with water after installing the boot and check for leaks before installing the inner tub. Nothing to it and worth the effort.

[jumptrout51]

Use a de-greaser solution on the clutch and pulley on the motor before replacing the belt.

[DIY_guy]

Thanks for the quick responses. Looks like the local app parts store does not have the seal (WH8X281) so I will have to order it. Do I need to be concerned with the gasket that the parts diagram shows on the tranny bottom plate or should it still be good (not leaking)? Also, there are a few surface rust spots on the outer tub and on the outside of the basket - should I sand and prime those while it is apart or leave them as-is? Other than that, this seems to be in remarkably good shape for it's age.

[jumptrout51]

Enter your part number in the search box on the left of this screen.
Check the outer tub carefully for pin holes.
Sanding and primer is good.

[DIY_guy]

Well, I got the inner basket out using the box wrench and hammer. Not too pleased with what I see at the bottom of the tub. I knocked out the rust and in doing so produced about 8 small holes the largest which is about a quarter inch. I got the tub seal off intact, and cleaned off the crap that was on the bottom. The rim where it attaches is a bit rough, so I'm thinking I will need to use RTV silicone or maybe there is a better suggestion of what to use so it will not leak when I fill it up. I also plan on using JB weld to mend the small holes unless anyone can recommend something better. I'm thinking if I can get this thing together and get this mountain of laundry done, we can look for something affordable if it springs a leak. I will try to post a picture of the tub.

[jumptrout51]

RTV will seal the holes(for a little while).

[DIY_guy]

Wow - I opened up the tranny. There was no oil left in it except for a few tablespoons. It doesn't look like two quarts of oil will be enough to fill this up. Maybe it shoudn't be too full? Well, who knows if I will be able to seal the tub holes enough anyway. I'll give it a try and see what happens when the seal gets here. Not sure if it matters what position the agitator is in when I put the plate back on after filling the tranny. I'll line up the arrow on the plate and hope that that spring loaded thing attached near the bearings is in the correct place.

[JWWebster]

You don't want to overfill it.

[jumptrout51]

About half full on the oil is plenty.
I believe there is a keyhole notch on the tranny cover that is self-aligning.

[DIY_guy]

Well, I got this thing back together and ran about three loads of clothes thru it. So far it is running well. I had patched the holes with JB Weld and also added small pieces of aluminum screen for reinforcement, then spot primed and put a good thick coating of clear RTV in the recessed areas and around the valley of the rim where the tub boot connects. RTV was probably not the best choice for this, but I was unsure what else to use. I guess if I see small pieces of it laying in the filter-flo tray, I will know it's days are numbered. I elected to use 80 weight gear oil for the tranny as what was remaining in there seemed much thicker than 30w and it was only 75 cents more a quart. I had forgotten how quiet this thing can run as it had gotten very noisy with no oil in it. I'll post a follow up if any other issues come up - thanks for sharing your info with me.

[JWWebster]

Interested to see how the heavier gear oil works out. Glad you could get er done.

[jumptrout51]

90w works great.
It is what I used when I had a used appliance store.

[jumptrout51]

RTV is used in manufacturing many appliances.
It is preferred and ideal for this repair.
It withstands heat/cold and water.
That is what it is made for.