Author Topic: Dryer Won't Heat  (Read 10324 times)

Offline JWWebster

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Jan 2008
  • Posts: 8780
  • Country: us
  • SublimeMasterJW
    • Buy me a beer through paypal
    • JW's Sublime Appliance Advice
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #15 on: May 04, 2010, 11:25:22 PM »
May the hinges of our friendship
        never grow rusty.

About the icons: The beer is tip link, if a tech saves ya some money buy em a 6 pack. The small green square=personal message. The green dot is a link to my web page on appliance repair and other general BS I love to post. The letter sends me email.
I love fan letters! LOL

Offline john63

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 453
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2010, 11:25:47 PM »
Hi all.  I have a DLG3788W that doesn't heat.  I was trying to solve my problem by following an earlier post, but wanted to stay away from the "shotgun" approach.  My dryer symptom is that it doesn't heat at all.  I Tested valve 1 and it peaks at 126VAC when the igniter is glowing.  But after the ignitor goes out, valve 2 only gets 24VAC.  Could this be my problem?  If so, what could be causing this?  Flame dectector? or?  Thank you

Courtesy of our friend Regus-Patof--an error in the troubleshooting flow chart has been identified.

Repeat your diagnostics test using the DC scale on your test meter on COILS 1 & 2.

The coils should be getting 90 VOLTS DC (Direct Current).

Sorry for the confusion--post your results...

« Last Edit: May 04, 2010, 11:49:08 PM by john63 »

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2010, 12:58:36 PM »
Ok, will do.  Thanks for all of the discussion. 

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #18 on: May 06, 2010, 12:33:39 AM »
Ok, retested with DCv:

Coil 1 (top coil) wire gets 100DCV just before, and as ignitor is glowing.
Coil 2 (the one you can reach with just the front cover off) wire gets -26DCV as ignitor is glowing, then goes to 0 until ignitor starts glowing again, then -26DCV

Offline john63

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 453
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #19 on: May 06, 2010, 12:43:58 AM »
Ok, retested with DCv:

Coil 1 (top coil) wire gets 100DCV just before, and as ignitor is glowing.
Coil 2 (the one you can reach with just the front cover off) wire gets -26DCV as ignitor is glowing, then goes to 0 until ignitor starts glowing again, then -26DCV

Same result--failed MAIN BOARD.

Good luck.

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #20 on: May 26, 2010, 04:01:04 PM »
Ok, I just got my new main board and I pretty much have the same results.  Coil 1 gets 120 DCV as ignitor is glowing, then coil 2 has nothing.  However, for about 3 or 4 seconds before the ignitor starts glowing, coil 2 gets 22DCV.

Offline john63

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 453
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #21 on: May 26, 2010, 04:24:36 PM »
Ok, I just got my new main board and I pretty much have the same results.  Coil 1 gets 120 DCV as ignitor is glowing, then coil 2 has nothing.  However, for about 3 or 4 seconds before the ignitor starts glowing, coil 2 gets 22DCV.

Follow the wires from the gas coils to the main board.
Look for chaffed/damaged wire(s).

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2010, 04:38:25 PM »
Ok, will do.  Another thing, I was thinking after reading the service manual; could it possibly be the flame (or as the manual says "frame") sensor?  It seems like that part gives the signal for the main board to open valve 2?

Offline Beehive Appliance

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 18
    • Beehive Appliance Service
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2010, 04:51:45 PM »
Has anyone suggested that the ignitor may not be pulling enough amps to open the other coil? I have seen where the ignitor looks like it is working however it doesn't build up enough amperage to open the valve coil. I believe the amperage should be about 3-4 amps and is easily checked with a clamp on amp meter
Beehive Appliance is a family owned appliance repair business in Utah established in 1946. From dishwashers to dryers, we repair it all. If you are looking for expert service at a reasonable price, look no further. Beehive Appliance Service is your solution. Give us a call today! 801-523-8184

Offline john63

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 453
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2010, 05:36:41 PM »
Ok, will do.  Another thing, I was thinking after reading the service manual; could it possibly be the flame (or as the manual says "frame") sensor?  It seems like that part gives the signal for the main board to open valve 2?

If the *contacts* within the FLAME SENSOR are pitted---it can cause erratic burner function.

Offline john63

  • Technician
  • Member Since: Feb 2010
  • Posts: 453
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #25 on: May 26, 2010, 05:37:33 PM »
Has anyone suggested that the ignitor may not be pulling enough amps to open the other coil? I have seen where the ignitor looks like it is working however it doesn't build up enough amperage to open the valve coil. I believe the amperage should be about 3-4 amps and is easily checked with a clamp on amp meter

This method (amperage) is not used in dryers.

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #26 on: May 26, 2010, 06:09:42 PM »
Ok, will do.  Another thing, I was thinking after reading the service manual; could it possibly be the flame (or as the manual says "frame") sensor?  It seems like that part gives the signal for the main board to open valve 2?

If the *contacts* within the FLAME SENSOR are pitted---it can cause erratic burner function.

Thanks.  That is not my problem right now.  I'm not connected to gas, just trying to get the valves to each get 90DCV.  I'll check the wires tonight.

Offline Beehive Appliance

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 18
    • Beehive Appliance Service
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #27 on: May 26, 2010, 09:20:37 PM »
Has anyone suggested that the ignitor may not be pulling enough amps to open the other coil? I have seen where the ignitor looks like it is working however it doesn't build up enough amperage to open the valve coil. I believe the amperage should be about 3-4 amps and is easily checked with a clamp on amp meter

This method (amperage) is not used in dryers.
I know that amperage is from a more basic old school dryer, however, the second valve shouldn't open unless there is a hot enough ignitor. It is merely a safety issue. If he has replaced the board, I would check the valves resistance to be between 1500 ohms - 2500 ohms. If these are within spec then I would jump to the ignitor. The service manual says it should measure between 100 - 800 ohms. Another thing to remember, is that when you are taking these measurements make sure the component is unplugged from any wiring.
Beehive Appliance is a family owned appliance repair business in Utah established in 1946. From dishwashers to dryers, we repair it all. If you are looking for expert service at a reasonable price, look no further. Beehive Appliance Service is your solution. Give us a call today! 801-523-8184

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #28 on: May 27, 2010, 12:45:24 AM »
Follow the wires from the gas coils to the main board.
Look for chaffed/damaged wire(s).

Wires appear to be fine.  A red one loops between the two coil plugs, and three wires (red, pink, and white) wrapped in electrical tape are fine to the main board.

Offline TSOL68

  • VIP Member
  • Member Since: May 2010
  • Posts: 16
Re: Dryer Won't Heat
« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2010, 12:49:26 AM »

I know that amperage is from a more basic old school dryer, however, the second valve shouldn't open unless there is a hot enough ignitor. It is merely a safety issue. If he has replaced the board, I would check the valves resistance to be between 1500 ohms - 2500 ohms. If these are within spec then I would jump to the ignitor. The service manual says it should measure between 100 - 800 ohms. Another thing to remember, is that when you are taking these measurements make sure the component is unplugged from any wiring.

The valve resistance is 1995 ohms and the ignitor is 185. 

 

IA84600 Inglis dryer doesn't heat

Started by RickT

Replies: 5
Views: 6135
Last post January 16, 2008, 04:02:42 PM
by JWWebster
maytag dryer model # md 3500 (no heat)

Started by #13

Replies: 5
Views: 5168
Last post December 05, 2007, 07:15:02 AM
by apptech
LG gas dryer wont heat

Started by berniet

Replies: 16
Views: 12864
Last post February 14, 2008, 03:56:13 PM
by RegUS_PatOff
Whirlpool Dryer - Run, but does not heat.

Started by AJ

Replies: 2
Views: 2131
Last post January 10, 2014, 12:26:55 PM
by fairbank56
Creda dryer runs but makes only a little heat

Started by goldstonemr

Replies: 33
Views: 10855
Last post April 27, 2008, 02:56:23 PM
by Penguin45
No HEAT in Old Broad's Dryer

Started by babs277

Replies: 32
Views: 9224
Last post March 12, 2008, 10:03:43 AM
by JWWebster