I have an LDF6819WW making no hot water as well. Downloaded the service manual from this site (many thanks) but it isn't obvious where to test the input voltage and heater resistance? I assume that I'll need to be able to run the machine to test the voltage. Do I need to pull it out to get at this or can I test from the front with the kick plate removed?
I must say I am pretty disappointed with the machine... less than 3 years old and it probably needs a new element.
This model number is most likely: LDF6810WW
An LG dishwasher/front is white/display panel is at the top of the door.
The following will be needed to perform diagnostics:
WIRE REPAIR TOOL & WIRE SPLICER(S)
CLOTH BLANKET OR LARGE CARDBOARD SHEET
COMPLAINT: No Heat
This usually produces an "HE" error (Heating Error)
If the d/w has NO heat in the tub after a cycle has ended--this is indeed a problem.
Most consumers indicate that the dishes haven't dried at the end of the cycle but everything in the d/w is hot or warm to the touch. In this case--it is NOT a component failure but another issue.
Assuming that there's NO heat--let's check (4) possibilities:
1) Broken wire.
Disconnect the power to the dishwasher at the *home* circuit
To protect the floor--place a cloth blanket or cardboard sheet
in front of the dishwasher.
Open the door and remove all of the "phillips" screws on the
stainless side of the door to remove the front panel.
Inspect the wire loom running from the bottom of the door to the
detergent dispenser housing. Most--if not all--*6810* model
dishwashers have the tar-like insulation material sprayed onto
the door and sides of the stainless steel tub. This acts as a
thermal blanket to keep heat in the d/w as well as a sound
If any of the wires have been pulled apart from becoming
embedded into the tar-coat--repair the wire(s).
Wrap the entire wire loom from the bottom of the door up to
the dispenser box with electrical tape. Cut a small section of
cardboard & place it between the wire loom & the tar coating.
If this needed to be done--re-install the front panel & restore
power to the d/w and run a test cycle. Most likely--it's repaired.
If not--keep the power to the d/w "off"...
2) FAILED MAIN BOARD
In order to test the *Main Board* it'll be necessary to close
door & test for power output. It's best to have an extra latch
that is located on the d/w tub at the 12 O'clock position. Part
number 4026DD3001A. Otherwise--you'll need three hands to
hold the main board and the volt/ohm meter.
Insert the test meter leads *into* the Main Board plug marked:
This is the big red plug on the upper/right corner.
Restore power to the d/w.
Press & hold the following (3) buttons at the top of the d/w
This activates the *test mode*.
Press the TIME DELAY button (6) times.
In the display--the number "36" should be visible.
This activates power to the heater for (10) seconds.
The test meter should show 110 or 120 volts for ten seconds.
If not--the Main Board has failed (relay on the board).
Depending on the SERIAL NUMBER of the d/w--it may be part
number: 6871DD1006H. It should be double-checked though.
If the board tests good...
3) FAILED HEATING ELEMENT
Disconnect power to the d/w.
Remove the RED plug from the Main Board (RD3) and perform a
*continuity test* of the Heating Element by placing the test
meter leads into the red plug.
If the heating element does not show continuity--it has failed.
I STRONGLY recommend replacing the *entire* Sump Assembly*
part number: AJH31248604.
This requires removing the d/w from under the counter & placing
the d/w on it's back.
Again, most--if not all of the *6810* model dishwashers had a
version of the Sump Assembly which had a very high problability
of a failing wash motor (Poor wash results or "LE" error).
If the heating element tested good...
4) FAILED DOOR LATCH SWITCH
Turn off the power to the d/w and using an ohmmeter--test
the left-side door switch for proper function.
DOOR CLOSED: Continuity.
DOOR OPENED: No continuity.