Maytag MAH4000AWW Inconsistent Spin Cycle

[waywild]

This washer has not been a very dependable washer. I have already replaced the bearing to remove the jet airplane noise. Now I am having inconsistency issues with the spin cycle. The washer will actually spin for one load and then the next load it won't. When this happens we repeat the "spin" cycle up to 10 times before it actually spins again. It "agitates" fine and the water drains properly. However, it will not spin to remove the water in the clothes. I can hear the timer click. I have seen the other postings about the control board and the R-11 resister is not burned. Does my control board need replacing, or is it the timer?

Model MAH4000AWW

[krazytech]

I would first check the out of balance switch. there is two one on the bottom and other is on the right side...if you jump the switches and it still will not spin then I would go to the motor control..hope it helps

[john63]

This washer has not been a very dependable washer. I have already replaced the bearing to remove the jet airplane noise. Now I am having inconsistency issues with the spin cycle. The washer will actually spin for one load and then the next load it won't. When this happens we repeat the "spin" cycle up to 10 times before it actually spins again. It "agitates" fine and the water drains properly. However, it will not spin to remove the water in the clothes. I can hear the timer click. I have seen the other postings about the control board and the R-11 resister is not burned. Does my control board need replacing, or is it the timer?

One possibility...


It's not uncommon to get compaints of intermittent spin performance on front load washers.

A very common cause of this is from overuse of detergent (or the incorrect type).

Use only "HE" type detergent (Low Suds Type) in the following amounts:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

The Neptune washer does *not* have a glass door--it is difficult to see oversudsing. The tub cannot reach high speed with excessive suds.
Adding 1/2 cup of el cheapo cooking oil and running a "short" cycle (without laundry) will rapidly reduce large amounts of suds--rather than trying to fill & drain the washer numerous times.

[krazytech]

 I have never used cooking oil ... but have used white vingar to cut the soap ... there is also affresh a washer cleaner too.


Affresh Washing Machine Cleaner Part # TJ120

[waywild]

Thank you all for your responses. We will give them a try this afternoon.

[waywild]

I have tried several combinations of jumping the out of balance switches to no avail. Krazytech, you note to try the motor control. Right now, I am only getting the washer to spin 1 out of 10 tries. The last time I had a very small load with almost no soap. On the 8th try, the spin took off by itself. Could the timer-switch be going bad?

[john63]

Sounds like the SPIN SWITCH is either failing or not fully depressed when the door wax motor is fully extended.

On the exploded view---the SPRING (#2) may need to be removed and slightly spread-out. This spring provides tension against the wax motor--allowing the piston to reach the SPIN SWITCH on the far right side of the door latch/lock assy. Shown as (#05) on the blow-up in the *vertical* position. If the spring tension is sufficient to allow the wax motor piston to reach this switch and no spin occurs----test the switch for continuity with a VOLT/OHM METER (unplug the washer).

[krazytech]

you could also jump out the door switches to see if it will spin....

Question ?
Does the timer advance thu the spin cycle or stop at the last rinse?

if it stops at the rinse check the cold inlet water screen could be plugged.

please let us know...

[Repair-man]

Save some time, get the 12002039 motor control kit. You can thank me later


Part # 12002039 Motor - Drve, AP4010145




p.s. After all the work you have put into it, I would also replace the belt if it has not been changed in 5 years or more. Remember, this unit has no transmission, so the belt does all the work.


Part # 12001788 Kit, Belt & Isolator, AP4009041

[krazytech]

Repair-Man, Do you know what component fails on these whirlpool motor controls?

[Repair-man]

These are not WP controls, per se. The motor/control set was originally made in China, although I am not sure who the vendor is on the latest kits. There is no consistent failure of these boards...sometimes only the fuse is blown, other times I find the triac blown to bits and several other failures. Maytag used to attribute the failure to a "communication problem" in the wiring harness from the motor to the control, but that was never proven. I do know that whateverr changes they made in the original motor & board, it pretty much solved the problem of board failure. I have never had a call back to one which had this upgrade kit installed.

[waywild]

Thank you all for your help.  I did replace the belt when I replaced the two bearings.

It appears that the vertical spin switch on the door lock is the issue. I reset the spring to no avail and then crossed the switch and now I have spinning but I have no "beeping noise" when the load is finished and the "on" light does not automatically go off - I am attributing this to bypassing the spin switch. The only issue I have is that I am unable to determine if the spin switch is bad or if a piece of the door wax motor is not pushing in the black button on the spin switch.

[john63]

Thank you all for your help.  I did replace the belt when I replaced the two bearings.

It appears that the vertical spin switch on the door lock is the issue. I reset the spring to no avail and then crossed the switch and now I have spinning but I have no "beeping noise" when the load is finished and the "on" light does not automatically go off - I am attributing this to bypassing the spin switch. The only issue I have is that I am unable to determine if the spin switch is bad or if a piece of the door wax motor is not pushing in the black button on the spin switch.

It is more common for the SPRING tension to be at fault.

The best method of confirming that the WAX MOTOR PISTON is fully extended & that the SPIN SWITCH button is fully depressed...
...is to observe it.

I prop the top cover with a small section of 2X4 and wait for the wax motor to fully extend--if needed--keep expanding the spring tension until the piston reaches the switch.
The spring is a bit of chore getting back into the slot.
Temporarily---placing a quarter (coin) between the spin switch & the piston will allow the washer to enable high speed spin.
 

[Mr. Fix-It]

Sounds like the dreaded R-11 resistor to me check the circuit board for a burned out resistor (on the left side above the blue capacitor)

[Repair-man]

Actually, this all reverts back to the motor control. When the cycle ends, the "beep" is actuated after the motor control sees absolutly no action from the motor. So, when the motor comes to a stop at the very end of the spin, two things happen:

1. The machine will tumble slowly  in opposite directions to loosen the load from the sides of the basket.
2. Once this 3-part tumble is complete, the control will end the cycle by issuing 5 beeps.

Methinks your motor control (or maybe the latch) is not sending the  proper signals back up to the machine control. Dang those pesky Chinese electrical circuits


If you have any doubts whether the lock spring is actually actuating the switches and releaseing them, you can always observe their activity by removing the front panel, raiaing the main top, then put the door back on for a tes run. You willl be able to see the wax motor slowly retract at the end of the cycle. Once the door lock light is out, the beeps will occur.