Whirlpool Refrigerator pouring water inside

[lennie]

I have the Whirlpool Refrigerator listed above.  I bought it new and it has been great.  It has 2 problems.  The first is urgent.  I noticed that the refrigerator section started pouring water inside the machine.  It is dripping at the top of the refrigerator and running down the back and accumulating in the bottom.  I have checked the water pan underneath and it is dry. I have vaccuumed out the bottom area and there is no water that is observable.  My intuition tells me something is clogged.  How do I fix this?  

The second problem is the icemaker has stopped working.

Model ET20PMXDW

[JWWebster]

The defrost water is supposed to go down a drain below the evap coils. That drain is clogged. Click on pic to enlarge.

[lennie]

This is in the freezer portion?

[lennie]

Do I have to take the icemaker out?

[schaffersapplian]

yes and yes    Make sure you unplug the machine when you unclog your defrost drain tube.  I failed to do so the other day and instantly cardorised  my knuckle on the heating element. 

[lennie]

OK so if I have to take the icemaker out I might as well fix it.  I jumped the module and it started running so I assume it must be the thermostat.  Is this the right part MOTOR-MODL

Part Number: AP4359694?  One other thing.  The fridge was not leaking when I pulled it out to clean it.  When I put it back it put water in the floor.  I have checked all connections and they are tight.  This part VALVE-INLT

Part Number: AP3961809
Made by WHIRLPOOL has a copper tubing welded in and cannot be loosened or tightened.  Do I replace it too.  Does the tubing need to be copper?

[schaffersapplian]

Can you take a picture of the copper part you are talking about?   There should be no solder joints on the water side of this fridge, or any fridge for that matter.  The key for jumping the icemaker out is, while its cycling, test 120volts at the water valve.  It will take a minute to get there, while the icemaker is cycling, and when the voltage is supplied, its only for 7 - 10 seconds.  If you get voltage there, you know you have a bad water valve.  If not, you know you have a bad icemaker.  Before you do any of this, look at where the water fills into the icemaker.  It could be frozen shut, and if thats the case, replace the water valve.

[schaffersapplian]

Just an FYI: you can go to a Lowe's and buy a Whirlpool icemaker kit for 50.00 buck's plus tax.  It comes with both the water valve and icemaker all in one box!

[JWWebster]

Behind the main drive wheel marked DO NOT ROTATE MANUALLY their is a small copper plate that tends to get dirty from the arcing associated with filling the mold. It can actually get so burred up it will sometimes put in 20 seconds worth of water instead of 7 secs. Yikes! You can remove that wheel and clean that up with limited success but the bottom dollar is you probably need a new ice maker. Repair photos,video,and manual HERE

[lennie]

Well after reading JW's last post I decided to just get the kit and replace the icemaker.  Before the ice maker stopped working all together it was overfilling so why not.  I am going in the kitchen now and starting with the valve.  The new one has plastice tubing that is permantly attached replacing the valve that I was describing. Here goes!

[lennie]

Pictures and why is there styafoam in there.

[Repair-man]

Looks like the leak is probably a clogged defrost drain line. The styrofoam blocks are there to prevent the floor panel from contacting the heater and to allow proper spacing for airflow. Use very hot water down the drain hole to help open it up again.

[lennie]

Havent cleared the drain will try the hot water